Mizugakiyama is a huge and beautiful hump of jagged granite a few kilometres north of Ogawayama. Although it has been a climbing venue for years, lack of decent access and facilities meant it stayed firmly in Ogawayama's shadow, despite it being potentially a vastly superior place to climb. However, the emperor paid a hiking visit a few years ago, so the bulldozers were sent in to create a suitable wilderness. Trees were felled in their thousands, and roads, paths and a huge picnic area were built. The result is that you don't need an Audi Quattro (or whatever rally drivers are driving these days) to get near the crags, and you can get a lot nearer than before.
The section described here is the closest to the picnic area and, as far as I know, information on this set of crags has yet to be published anywhere. Which is a shame, because there are some great routes crying out for a little attention and 30m Slab is an excellent venue for a day's slabbing.
The most convenient place to park is the new picnic area directly below the crags. There are toilets here and you can camp on the site opposite the car park. I think this costs 1,000 yen per tent, regardless of the number of people. I think there was a tacit agreement that climbers would not camp in the woods if the local council built a campsite, but it's a poor camping spot for the money, and you can't light a fire. It is much more pleasant to camp in the woods - drive past the picnic area to where the road forks, choose a road and pull off somewhere secluded (the right fork takes you off-road and up to the camping spot for Fudousawa and Kasamerisawa areas - you will need a high wheelbase and/or four-wheel drive to get far up this). For the moment this is allowed but that may change in the future. Leave no mess and be especially careful if you make a fire.

From the picnic area follow the big paths up and left into the woods past a couple of boulders till just before steps in the path. Cut straight up the hillside on no path and hope.
From the Fudousawa track, follow the big path into the woods for 300m to steps in the path. Just after the steps, cut left uphill (boulder with neat crack on the left, huge easy boulder over to the right) to a vague path. Follow this up and right into thicker woods to Bottom Slab. For 30m Slab, skirt Bottom Slab and head right and up the narrowing hillside. Just after a slabby boulder with an undercut crack, cross the stream and zigzag up till you hit rock.

Number	Crag Name (Click to Get There)
1	Bottom Slab
2	Maybe Routes
3	Doodle Wall
4	Grotty Slab
5	Thirty-Metre Slab
6	Inner Slab
7	Big Slab

The first crag on the left side the gully is wooded and gloomy at its base. There are two bolted lines on the front and a thin flake crack on the right face. Above the bottom slab, you should be able to see a very impressive wall with one bolted line and a crack in its centre. I think these are second pitches of the routes below. I haven't done them, but they look much better than the stuff below. The routes are described from left to right.

Left Slab	5.10b*	20m
Neat climbing up the left line of the slab, in spite of the lichen.
Start at the left edge of the slab, before it gets really chossy. Move up and across to the first bolt, then climb neatly up to a ledge using good holds in dikes. A scratchy smear or two gains the next dike, which is good enough for a heave and a mantel. Belay at the tree on the left or continue up the easy but dirty slab to a distant lower-off. Ab off or try a route on the top wall (might as well).

Right Slab	5.10a	20m
Dirty climbing up the right line of the slab.
Start at a short flake near the right edge of the slab. Pull up this then climb dirtily up the slab to the ledge. Pull up to the next dike and mantel onto the top slab. Belay at the tree on the left or continue up the easy but dirty slab to a distant lower-off. Ab off or try a route on the top wall (might as well).

Thin Crack	5.10a	13m
The pleasant-looking flake in the right side of the slab is unfortunately filthy. Shame.
Follow the flake to a rotting lower-off where the angle eases. Ab off or continue to the top wall.

Doodle Wall

The first crag right of the gully is almost a face. Apart from Right Edge, all of the routes share a start just right of a big crumbly cave and hang low in the centre of the South (main) Face. The routes are numbered and described from left to right (well, they will be eventually).

The dirty tapering slab in between Doodle Wall and Thirty-Metre Slab. All of the pitches are in the range 5.7 - 5.9 and would be pleasant if cleaned. The central two lines pull through some loose rock about 10m up.
There is an anchor at the ledge in the middle of the slab which can be used for all routes except the leftmost. The continuation pitches are almost completely revegetated.

The broad slab visible as the second slab from the left in the second hump from the left as seen from the new car park. The rock is almost uniformly excellent and for the most part naturally clean. A 60m rope is recommended for making the descent easier. For your rope's sake, top-roping (from the bottom at least) is not recommended. Apart from route Eight, it is best to ab off the anchor on the central tree (at the top of route Three). This is about 30m! The routes are numbered and described from left to right.

One	5.10c***	33m
Good sustained climbing up the left edge of the slab. There are some crunchy holds on the crux section, which is 10b if you find buried treasure.
Start about 3m left of the groove left of the central rib. Climb up then head left to a short flake below a big dike (possible Friend 1.5 - the second bolt is quite a way from the first!). Pull onto the dike then make a sustained series of moves up to and along the slanting slabbier section up left. The angle soon relents. Pad easily but carefully up and right to the main tree.

Two	5.10c****	32m
The best route on the slab, low in the grade.
Start just left of the groove left of the central rib. Climb up and slightly left to the big dike, right of the flake of One. From the dike move up, step right and move up again to a vague scoop - a good, sustained sequence. A final tricky move gains the lip of the easy top slab. Mantel and pad up to the main tree.

Three	5.9****	31m
Another excellent route, the easiest on the slab.
Start on the left side of the central rib. Pull up and move onto the front of the rib. Climb easily but carefully up to the first bolt. Move up and pull over a steeper section using good holds on the left. Continue past one tricky section to gain the easy top slab and then the tree.

Four	5.9**	31m
Basically a long variation start to Three or Five.
Start on the right side of the central rib, below a tree. Make a steep pull on a jug and a tricky mantel to gain the tree. Move almost onto the front of the rib (keep left of the tree five metres up), then climb easily but carefully up and right to the first bolt. Another runout on good holds leads to the second bolt and a groove. Move up and make a technical step up into a scoop. Pull out of this to an easy section between the finishes of Three and Five. Take your pick (left is easier!).

Five	5.10b***	30m
A sustained route with a steep start.
Start a couple of metres right of Four, behind a young larch. Pull up steeply to reach big holds and easy moves to slabby ground. Climb almost direct by increasingly tricky moves to a final technical sequence to gain the easy ground below the tree.

Six	5.10b***	30m
Easier climbing just to the right, with a good finish.
Start up and right of Five, where a ledge runs in from the right. Step onto the ledge and move left to the bolt line right of Five. Climb pleasantly up on big holds to the final steeper section. Good moves up this on small sharp holds lead to the top.

Seven	5.10c***	30m
Another excellent route.
Start as for Six. Step right at the third bolt to follow a separate boltline. After a steep pull out right, climb relatively easily to the steep final slab. A good sequence up this leads to the tree.

Eight	5.10a**	25m
Easier than it looks, but with a scary steep bit low down.
Start about 10m up and right of Seven at a short steep wall leading to a pine on a terrace. Climb the left edge of the wall past a crumbly block to the terrace. Make a high step off this onto the slab using good holds on the left. Climb the easier slab above to a tree right of the main tree.

Inner Slab

Not very obvious, but it is a separate piece of rock, so... 30m right of Eight (and just left of Big Slab) is a short steep wall with a bolted line up its right rib. At present a tree grows diagonally out of the gully on the right, making the start easier (if you use it!).

Inner Bottom Arete	5.10a	9m
The crumbly slender right face of the short steep wall.
Start behind the aforementioned tree, and use it (10b if you don't) to gain good but gritty holds that lead quickly to a tree on a terrace. Ab off, scramble off to the left (facing in) or climb a pitch up the slab behind the terrace.

Inner Top Slab	5.10a*	20m
The left line up the slab starting from the terrace on which Inner Bottom Arete finishes. To approach, either climb Inner Bottom Arete or scramble up the gully on the left.
Step onto the left edge of the slab behind the belay and make a long reach for a flake. Pull up and mantel onto a ledge. A tricky move up the centre of the next slab gains jugs leading up and right to a dirty low-angled slab. Pull under a fallen but living tree and skitter up the slab to a good tree at the top with a grotty lower-off. Ab off.

Inner Top Arete	5.9	20m
A poor climb up the right edge of the slab starting from the terrace on which Inner Bottom Arete finishes. To approach, either climb Inner Bottom Arete or scramble up the gully on the left.
Step onto the right edge of the slab behind the belay and pull up and mantel onto a ledge. Weave away near the right edge, dodging the hard and interesting bits. At the top steep section, pull out left and go diagonally left across the dirty slab to finish at the same tree as Inner Top Slab. Ab off.

Big Slab

The huge, wide and slightly recessed slab just right also has steep bits. Some of the bolting is a bit confusing, but all the same, it's worth persevering with (keep rope-drag in mind, though). A 60m rope is recommended, as is abseil descent. Note that on some routes it is also possible to scramble up into the waiting hillside and walk off a long way left (facing in). The routes are numbered and described from left to right.

RCCBigleft	5.10a*	20m
The left-leaning dirty line of RCC bolts.
Start at the left edge of the slab. Step up to a flake and go diagonally right until it is possible to pull left to an attractive clean slab. Pull neatly up the centre of this to a peg in the roof. Step left and mantel to twin bolts that may be hidden under vegetation. If you can't find them, make a dirty pull up to a good tree with ancient lower-off.

PetzlBigleft	5.10c**	45m
A big, wandering, varied pitch.
Follow RCCBigleft to its last-but-one RCC bolt, then swing through the roof on the right on big booming flakes (possible belay). Move up to and over a steep slab on real bolts then follow a groove easily up and right to a lower-off under the top hang. Ab off (OK on a 60m rope).

PetzlCentreHang	5.11a*	15m
A short, steep trip over the lower overhang.
Start about 10m up and right of PetzlBigleft, under an overhang. Climb easily up to this, step right, pull over and mantel to a lower-off in the centre of the slab. Lower off or continue up PetzlBigleft or RCC_Corner.

RCC_Corner	5.10a**	40m
The big, central RCC line that skirts two hangs and dallies with the central corner.
Start about 10m up and right of PetzlBigleft, under an overhang. Climb easily up to this, follow a dirty break up and right and pull over using pockets. Step left and climb the juggy slab to the next hang. Swing right and pull through at its narrowest point, then follow the bolts diagonally left to a lower-off under the next hang. Ab off (30m).

Right of the big corner is a slimmer slab bounded by another corner on its right.

Slimleft	5.10b**	27m
The centre of the slab. Very enjoyable.
Start about 15m up and right of RCC_Corner, directly under the slab. Climb over dirty rock to a ledge. A steep pull of this gains a flake where the bolt line forks. Follow the left fork all the way up the centre of the slab to twin bolts under the roof (no tat). Ab off (25m).

Slimright	5.10c**	25m
Another enjoyable slab.
Follow Slimleft to the flake where the bolt line forks. Take the right fork to a crumbly flake and follow the corner till it is possible to pull round the arete on the right onto another slab. Climb the center of this to an anchor where the face rears up. Ab off this (25m) or continue up the face using another crumbly flake to a lower-off on a tree. Ab off (30m).

Bigright	5.10a**	25m
A bit dirty, but generally nice, steep juggy climbing.
Start about 10m up and right of Slimright in the arms of a fallen conifer at a bolted dike. Climb the dike on good holds to a break. Move up to the next break then make crux layback moves up a short crack to pull onto a slab. Go easily up this and broken ground to a rotting lower-off on a tree. Ab off (25m). There appears to be a continuation pitch up the crack and slab behind the tree - looks easy, but I haven't done it.