The Family Rocks

Number Crag Name (Click to Get There) 1 Ani Iwa 2 Obasan Iwa 3 Saikoro Iwa etc. 4 Otouto Iwa 5 Mamako Iwa 6 Chichi Iwa 7 Haha Iwa 8 Mekake Iwa 9 Laputa no Tou 10 Riverside

Number Crag Name (Click to Get There) 11 Kakushiko Iwa etc. 12 Imouto Iwa 13 Mara Iwa 14 Hop, Step, Jump etc. 15 Sotsugyou Kinen etc. 16 Ane Iwa 17 Not Yet Wall 18 Shikaku Iwa 19 Limelight Wall

G'day Mate	5.10c**	15m
A fun, steep line at the extreme left end of the crag.
Climb direct up a steep wall to a left leaning crack/groove. After hard moves up this pull up and right to easier ground and a tree. Slings and krabs in place.

Numeran	5.10d**	15m
Contrived and escapable, but worthwhile.
Climb the dirty corner right of G'day Mate for a couple of metres (possible Friends) till the angle of the left wall relents. Pull across into the centre of the slab and climb diagonally left till it is possible to reach good holds in the centre of the slab. Climb pleasantly on jugs to a final steep move to a ledge. Swing left to finish at the tree of G'day Mate. You can make the route a much more enjoyable and even 5.10a by dodging the crux on the right. You can also improve the last moves by pulling up the crack on the right and hand-traversing the ledge to the finishing tree.

Sell My Soul	5.11c*	50m
OK, the name in the Japanese guides is 'Sale My Soul', but it irks. An uneven, rarely climbed route.
Start as for Numeran. Climb the easy corner for a few metres then step out left into the centre of the slab below a steepening. Climb direct to a lower-off.

Pikunikura	5.10b***	30m
A cracking pitch up the crack in the slab that fades and ends at a tower. Take a set of Friends for the crack.
Climb easily to the crack in the overhang. Pull over easily and continue on good holds and jams to where the crack ends. Make a thin move up to the steep face, then pull up and left and climb direct to a lower-off at the top. If you're using a 50m rope, lower off or ab as far as possible, then scramble carefully down the last few metres.

Touhan no Subete - All About Climbing	5.11d****	20m
An excellent, varied route with a peculiar start. Scramble up over easy ground right of Pikunikura, then pull into the tree-filled gully and belay in the big bugger.
Walk along the tree trunk to the wall. Pull up into an overhanging corner and layback to its top. Make a long reach for a dike and mantel, naturally avoiding the temptation of the sling dangling from the bolt. Climb the slab to a couple of pockets then traverse left to the arete and move up to the lower-off of Pikunikura.

Tajan IV - Tarzan IV	5.10a***	18m
Neat slabbing, with just a hint of insecurity.
Start at the left edge of the righthand slab, above the step. Climb easily to an overlap. Pull over, then move up and slightly right to good holds. Climb direct to the last bolt, then run it out left and up to a chain lower-off.

Mikazuki no Pin Clip - Crescent Moon Pin Clip	5.10c***	20m
More neat slabbing, and more insecurity.
Climb an easy groove right of Tajan IV to the left end of a dike. A wobbly mantel gets you onto this. Hard moves off it lead to better holds and a junction with Tajan IV. Follow this to the lower-off. Given 10b in Japanese guides, but I can't see that.

Osouji Jouzu - Good at Cleaning	5.11b**	25m
The slab right of Mikazuki no Pin Clip, gained from it.
Climb to the dike, then follow it right to its end. Step left and make a desperate pull onto a ledge so faint it thinks it's a couple of smears. Move up to a small overlap, then climb slightly right to a tree and lower-off.

Clean Climbing	5.11d***	9m
A boulder problem start to Osouji Jouzu.
Make thin moves past a vague flake, then a desperate smear for a big shallow pocket. Mantel, then pull up to join Osouji Jouzu on the dike.

The Creator	5.12a*	25m
Desperate climbing up the right edge of the slab. Rarely done, and in need of a fresh clean-up.
Start just left of a step in the slab. Use an arete to reach a thin ledge. Mantel onto this then step up on absolute tinies (crux), and climb direct till just below the top. Step left and up to a tree and lower-off.

The Central Walls

Anta wa Te ga Nagai - You've Got Long Arms	5.12a*	11m
The small wall with a sloping dike and flake round the corner from the Lower Slab. More to this than meets the eye.
Pull up to the dike, then swing left and reach up for a flake (possible Friends). Continue more easily to a lower-off.

Hansharo wa Deiduriimu - Reverberatory Furnace is a Daydream	5.11b**	15m
Well that's what it said in the dictionary. An enjoyable if artificial route finishing in a good position up a small tower.
Start tucked in on the left. Climb a small face on the right to a ledge. Step onto the front face of the tower and climb neatly to a lower-off.

Sunday	5.9**	15m
A good steep corner pitch. Take a rack.
Start where the path kinks right. Scramble to the foot of the corner. Climb this steeply on good jams and holds to a shoulder, then climb a juggy wall to a big terrace. Ab or lower off a tree, or bring your buddy up and climb a route from the terrace.

Meoto Kante - Husband and Wife Arete	5.13a**	30m
A steep face and arete on tiny holds.
Start on the ledge at the foot of the corner of Sunday. Move out right to the arete above a cutaway, then slap and crimp desperately up the arete. Easy finishing moves lead to the terrace.

Meoto Kurakku - Husband and Wife Crack	5.11c**	15m
The tough, intermittent crack round the arete. Small to medium wires and Friends.
Climb the thin crack just right of the arete to a small overhang. Pull over and continue past three bolts to finish up a wider crack to the terrace.

Ojamamushi - The Pest	5.12a*	15m
An artificial filler that requires blinkers, but the climbing's OK.
Climb the crack between Meoto Kurakku and Hachioji Route to the terrace - no gear or holds in either of those routes.

Hachioji Route	5.8**	25m
The corner to the right, and a wide crack starting from the terrace. Take a rack. The stars are for the lower corner.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Climb the obvious corner pleasantly to the terrace. Pitch 2. 5.6 Climb the wide, recessed crack at the left end of the terrace.

Nikaku - Double Arete	5.11d*	18m
An artificial line that links two short aretes.
Start on a ledge overlooking the path. Climb the bolted short arete left of a small corner (which you're not allowed to touch) to a ledge. Pull onto the hanging arete above and climb to a lower-off.

Scarecrow	5.11b***	25m
A sustained climb with a fine exposed finish. See if you can get someone to take your pikkie from across the river.
Start on a ledge overlooking the path. Pull into a short corner and make hard moves to exit this on the right. Pull over a small overhang, then pick your way up the top wall in a superb position.

Leonie	5.10c*	25m
A good line, but only marginally good crack-climbing after a dirty start.
Start at the right edge of the big wall right of Scarecrow. Scramble up the dirty gully to a small pinnacle at the base of the prominent 'V' (possible belay). Pull up to the 'V' and follow the left branch to a crack. Climb this to a tree at the top.

Arupain Shoujou Mami - Mami of the Alps	5.11d****	20m
The best route on Ani Iwa. Great moves and a tad scary.
Start at the right edge of the buttress. Climb up left of the easy slab to a small ledge. Move up then traverse left till it is possible to move up to and over an overlap. Step right and pull through an overhang, then skitter up a small face to the top. Lower off.

Natsuko no Nattsu - Natsuko's Nuts	5.11a***	25m
A very good route up the right arete of the buttress. Take wires and small Friends for the start.
Start at an easy slab at the right edge of the buttress. Climb this to an overhang and pull over into a groove. Step up then right onto the arete and follow this to the lower-off of Arupain Shoujou Mami. Take care if lowering off to retrieve gear, otherwise you can ab down either the front or back face, or scramble then walk off round the back of the buttress.

The East Face

Saikou Flake - The Excellent Flake	5.9*	19m
Hardly. The big flake in the back wall offers limited sport. Take a rack.
Thug up for a few metres, then follow the flake as it curves right to a lower-off.

Mountain Pro-shop Dake - Mountain Pro-shop Peak	5.12b	8m
A poor route that attempts to climb direct to the lower-off of Saikou Flake.
Start just right of Saikou Flake. Climb direct to the first bolt then swing right and up to the second. Finish direct. You're not allowed to touch holds in or near the corner/crack on the right.

Moonsalto Gojuu Ichi Gou - Moonsault 51	5.11b*	15m
The wall right of Mountain Pro-shop Dake.
Climb the wall just right of the arete past a gripper second clip to a lower-off. Crux up top.

Mori no Midori ni Kakomarete - With the Green Wood All Around	5.11a***	15m
Good holds and fun up the wall right of Moonsalto Gojuu Ichi Gou.
Climb steeply to the first bolt. Zig delicately right and zag left past a slanting crack to the second. Finish direct and step left to the lower-off of Moonsalto Gojuu Ichi Gou. The line to the right is an enjoyable but unreported 10d.

The North Face

Gambare Kuma-san - Go on, Mr. Bear!	5.10b*	14m
The cracked face on the left as the path runs round to the terrace.
Climb the centre of the face on good holds to a groove. Up this to a lower-off.

Houjou Kante - Houjou Arete	5.10b	14m
A poor route that attempts to climb the arete right of Gambare Kuma-san.
Start right of the arete, and climb right of the arete to a lower-off, all of the while imagining that you are climbing the arete.

Kintarou	5.9	10m
The very short, dirty corner just before the path goes round the corner to the terrace. Take a rack.
Climb the corner to a choice of tree.

From the Terrace

Momiji - Maple	5.10a**	9m
The cracked arete to the right of the recess containing pitch 2 of Hachioji Route is very pleasant, but there's not enough of it.
Pull up on good jams and holds to a tall man's move past a tiny overlap. Heave again and amble to a choice of lower-off.

Wally wo Sagase - Where's Wally?	5.11a**	10m
Enjoyable climbing up the thin crack right of Momiji. Crux at the bottom.
Start just right of Momiji. Technical moves on small, sharp holds lead to a slight ledge. Good locks in the crack lead past one sharp pull to a lower-off.

Summertime	5.13b**	13m
A supercharged Wally wo Sagase.
Start just right of Wally wo Sagase. Desperate crimping up the wall to a lower-off makes some people happy. The Japanese guide recommends pre-clipping the first bolt.

Magajin - Magazine	5.10a***	13m
The slender white corner - harder than it looks. Take a rack.
Climb the corner, with difficulty concentrated in the smooth first few metres, to a lower-off in a tree.

Dance, Dance, Dance	5.10c*	15m
The right arete of Magajin, gained from Get It On. Take a rack.
Make a spooky step off the right edge of the terrace into a short capped corner. At the overhang, pull out left to a bottomless crack. Follow this to the top in a good position.

Get It On	5.11c**	15m
A very 'exciting' route - rarely climbed. Take a rack.
Step off the right edge of the terrace into the short capped corner, but at the overhang, pull out right onto the steep exposed face. Move out right to the arete and sprint up this to the top. Lower off.

Obasan Iwa - Auntie Rock

Seitou Udoku - Climb When it's Fine, Read When it Rains	5.10b**	10m
The lefthand line. OK, but a bit gloomy. The name is a pun on a Japanese proverb that almost means 'Make hay while the sun shines'.
Gain the first bolt from slightly to the right. Traverse left to a good flake and finish direct with a scary rockover to gain a lower-off.

Tenkuu no Tatakai - Battle in the Sky	5.10a*	10m
The righthand line. Steeper and more broken.
Climb direct to two bolts very close together. Pull up and left to a hanging groove that leads to a lower-off. The holds are big but crunchy.

The Upper Tier

Watashi ga Obasan ni Natte mo - Even When I'm an Old Woman	5.10a**	10m
The left arete of the twee little subsidiary slab. More strenuous than it looks.
Gain the arete from the right and follow it with continuous interest to a step right to a shared lower-off at the tip of the slab. Well, that's what I thought: "Continuously interesting, this."

Hahako - Cottonweed	5.10c**	10m
The centre of the twee little subsidiary slab with one hard move.
Climb the centre of the lefthand slab on sharp holds till below a crack. Heave into the crack with little help from your feet, then pull up to the lower-off. The crack takes Friends 2-3 very nicely, if required.

Kodomo wo Namenna yo - Don't Spoil Your Kids	5.10b**	11m
The right corner of the twee little subsidiary slab has been retro-bolted.
Climb the corner - much harder than it looks - to a step left to the lower-off. Sustained till you get past the bulge. Treat the jug at the top with care - you don't see many like that round here.

Reeru Du Tan - L'Air du Temps - Spirit of the Age	5.10d***	13m
The lefthand line on the main slab: enjoyable, as bolted cracks go.
Pull up to, over and onto a pancake flake at the left end of the main slab. The second clip is a bit wobbly. Follow the disjointed cracks above to a lower-off.

Tonbi ni Aburage Sarawareta - A Kite Stole my Fried Toufu	5.10d	16m
A good line but a poor climb. Take a rack. Apparently, and mythically, kites like fried tofu. Take a set of Friends.
From just right of Reeru Ju Tan, climb steeply up and right past a short crack to the arete. Attempt to follow this to the lower-off of Reeru Ju Tan. You'll probably end up in the chossy crack on the right at some stage.

Tonari no Obasan - The Woman Nextdoor

Touch	5.11b**	18m
The right arete of the face - try not to interfere with climbers on Watashi ga Obasan ni Natte mo.
Gain the arete by climbing out right from the gully. The arete increases in difficulty to a final smear across a slab to the lower-off.

Alcohol Denchi - Alcohol Battery	5.8*	9m
The face just left has a ramp slanting left to a lower-off at half height.
Climb uneventfully and relatively easily on big holds to meet the ramp at its left end. Pull into the ramp and trudge up to the lower-off. The direct finish (to the lower-off on Touch) is Super Alcohol Denchi - Super Alcohol Battery, 5.11c and not worth it.

Alzheimer	5.10d*	18m
The longer, line left of Alcohol Denchi. There's a pun in the Japanese name that I can't pull off.
Start just left of Alcohol Denchi, and just right of the arete formed by the edge of the steep section on the left. Neat moves lead to a slabby central section and steep finish. Quite trying.

XXX to Inazuma - XXX and Lightning	5.11b**	18m
The first of three longer lines on the steeper wall left of Alzheimer. A bit too close to Alzheimer, really.
Start just left of Alzheimer. Steep moves on good holds lead to a hard pull to where the angle eases. Easier climbing to the lower-off.

Kokufuku - Conquest	5.11c**	18m
Reportedly the best of the bunch.
Haven't done it.

Passion	5.12a*	16m
The next line along.
Climb the choss on the left for a couple of metres, then pull onto the wall proper and struggle top where the angle eases. The top section is enjoyable.

The next two routes start one step further up the dank gully.

Margin	5.11d*	10m
The right edge of the steep face.
Step out right and paddle steeply on small sharp holds to a lower-off.

Makenai - Can't Lose	5.10d	10m
The leftmost and dankest line. The hanger is missing from the first bolt (Spring 2004).
Steep moves on small holds lead quickly to a narrow ledge and short, smooth corner. Finish up this at a lower-off.

Tomodachi Iwa - Friend Rock

Skywalker	5.10b**	25m
A nice long pitch up the slender lefthand tower. Take a couple of small Friends.
Climb the easy but chossy lower slab past a crack to an overhang above a ledge. Pull over using a flake on the right and follow the right edge of the face to a lower-off.

Coming Out	5.11c*	15m
A bit of a stiffy over the hang at its widest point.
Climb with relative ease to the overhang. Pull over desperately to a lower-off.

Space Odyssey	5.10c**	15m
The line leading up to the crack in the hang.
Climb the steep slab to the overhang. Pull over using the cruddy crack and continue to a lower-off. Now why would those two bolts be together?

Discovery	5.10a*	15m
The right edge of the righthand slab. High in the grade.
Start below an overlap on the right edge of the main slab. Climb to the overlap, pull over and follow the right edge to an overhang. Pull over by a small tree and go up to a lower-off.

Mo!	5.10b*	10m
An entertaining but artificial problem up the arete right of Discovery.
Start round the arete from Discovery and a short way up the gully. Pull out left to the arete, then make awkward moves up to a good flat hold. Heave onto this and step right to a lower-off.

Akante	5.11c*	9m
A very artificial problem up the small arete right of Mo!
Start as for Mo! and climb the little arete past a bulge to the same lower-off.

Queer	5.11b	8m
A very short problem up the tiny face round the back of Tomodachi Iwa.
Start round to the right of Akante and climb the face before it disappears into the hillside to the same lower-off.

Fill Thomas	5.11d*	11m
The left arete of the narrow face on the next rock up the gully.
Start by pulling up a fixed rope (check it first!) then step left as soon as possible onto the arete. Follow this with difficulty to a step right to a lower-off.

Suteki na Okusama - Beautiful Wife	5.10c*	12m
The right arete of the narrow face.
Start by pulling up the fixed rope. From its top, pull left onto and climb the arete. This is quite hard till a good jug is gained. Mantel onto this and continue to a lower-off.

Stocklin Ojisan - Uncle Stocklin	5.11c	8m
The short steep face round to the right of Suteki na Okusama.
Start at the top of the fixed rope, right of Suteki na Okusama. Climb the dirty, gloomy face by desperate and reachy moves to a lower-off.

Da!	5.10d	9m
The thoroughly trivial face opposite Stocklin Ojisan.
Climb the narrow, broken face to a lower-off under Saikoro Iwa. Not very rewarding. At all.

K.C. Cat	5.11a**	10m
The slab/face level with and 10m right of Mo!
Start at the left edge of the slab, on a gardened terrace. Pull up to a narrow ledge and make a touch-and-go mantel onto it. Reachy moves on generally good holds gain a lower-off.

Beagle	5.12b*	11m
The line right of K.C. Cat.
Start down and right of the terrace, at an undercut. Pull over and climb the right arete of the face to a lower-off. I don't know what to make of the bolt between this and K.C. Cat near the top.

Yane Ura Biiru Koujou - Attic Brewery	5.10c	8m
The tiny face in a gloomy cranny about 15m down and right (facing in) of Beagle. 8m might be a little generous.
Climb the face to a lower-off.

Ai ga Areba Toshi no Sa nante - Age doesn't Matter When You're in Love	5.11c	9m
Quite right, too.
20m down and right of Yane Ura Biiru Koujou is the face with Aa, Koshimin, which you may have passed on the way in. Climb the left side of this to a lower-off.

Aa, Koshimin - Ah, the Bourgeoisie	5.11b	9m
The righthand line.
Climb the right side of the face to a lower-off.

Saikoro Iwa - The Dice

Belle Vue	5.11d*	10m
A short fierce route up the centre of the west (facing the lodge) face.
Start in the centre of the face. Climb carefully over crumblies to below the overlap, pull left and over and follow the lefthand line. The first bolt on Schloss Adler has been extended to protect the start.

Schloss Adler	5.11c***	10m
The righthand line of the west face: the best route on the Dice.
Start as for Belle Vue. Climb to the overlap, pull over and follow the right arete.

Saikoro Roof	5.11b*	10m
An uninspiring problem up the left edge of the east (back) face. Easier than it looks low down, but...
The blue bolts. Climb to the obvious small overhang, taking care with the first clip. Pull over and follow the left edge of the face to the break below the top (possible big Friends). Step left to a slab and make hard moves up this to a lower-off and the top. A lovely place to be.

Secret	5.11c**	10m
The not-so-steep central line. Harder than it looks.
The plain bolts. A steep pull or jump to start gains a good break. Fluffy climbing on would-be holds leads to another break (the crux is leaving the good foothold in the centre of the face). Finish up the notch. The crack is a little friable, but takes good medium Friends.

No Access	5.11a**	10m
The pleasant right edge of the face.
The purple bolts. Climb just left of the right edge to the first break. Neat moves centred on a thin crack lead to the second break. Traverse left and finish up the notch (possible Friends).

Okosama Iwa - Child Rock

Omunaito	5.10a	9m
The short bolted flake on the east face. I think the name's something to do with Pokemon.
Climb steeply up the flake on big crumbly holds. The rollover onto the top slab is quite scary. Be warned: The first bolts are in the flake and the flake itself is less than permanent. The lower-off consists of two short chains on unconnected bolts.

Otouto Iwa - Little Brother Rock

Shitazumi Seikatsu - The Hard Life of an Apprentice	5.10b*	10m
Short, and not very hard.
Climb slightly to the left of the lefthand of the two bolt lines on the short steep wall to a tree. Be kind to nature and use the lower-off a little higher.

Moujiki Bakabon - Soon Be Bakabon	5.10d*	10m
Short, but a bit harder than its neighbour. (Bakabon's a cartoon character.)
Climb the righthand of the two bolt lines on the short steep wall to a tree. Not sure if you're supposed to use the holds on the right at this grade - seems too easy with them, but too hard without. Be kind to nature and use the lower-off a little higher.

Ogawayama Gekijou - Ogawayama Theatre	5.10d**	50m
An uneven 3-pitch route, but the top pitch leaves you in a nice position. Start by scrambling over easy ground to the lower-off of Shitazumi Seikatsu. You can turn the route into a better 4-pitch 5.10b by climbing Shitazumi Seikatsu as pitch 1 and climbing the lurvly corner as pitch 3.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Step left and up to a small overhang. Pull over, step right, and climb direct to a big ledge. Pitch 2. 5.10d For some reason, ignore the lurvly corner crack on the left, and climb the bolted line to its right. Walk up to a tree belay at the foot of the top face. Be careful not to knock anything down. Pitch 3. 5.9 Make a steep pull to get established on the face, then follow this pleasantly in a fine position to a lower-off at the top.
Make a short ab down the back face to a big ledge, then walk down past Mamako Iwa and down and round to the front of the crag.

Kentaurus Densetsu - The Legend of the Centaur	5.10b*	25m
Not as good as it looks. Most of the bolts are badly placed (you always seem to be a metre right or left of them), and the first clip can be scary, depending on the moss factor.
Make a rising leftward traverse across the slab 'till under a corner at the left edge of the big overhang. Climb up to the foot of the corner (loose block), then climb up and around its left arete. Step back right at its top and continue more easily to a lower-off.

Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki - Fiddler on the Roof	5.11b**	26m
A very impressive line, but they could at least have put the bolts in properly.
Start as for Kentaurus Densetsu, but from the traverse pull up and right to the big overhangs. Work a line right then left through these (the crux is getting established above the second) to easier ground and a lower-off.

The next two routes climb the slab above and right of Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki. They start from a ledge gained by scrambling up a broken corner round to the right of Yane no Ue no Baiorin Hiki, but are best thought of as two-pitch routes. Take a set of Friends and plenty of slings.

Love Story	5.9*	35m
The corner followed by the cracked slab left of the prominent brown overhang. Good positions and mostly big holds, but the rock's a bit iffy in places.
Pitch 1. 5.7 Climb the loose corner to the second tree. Pull round left onto the front face and climb between a couple of detached flakes to a good ledge next to a lonesome pine. Bolt and peg belay. Be careful not to knock anything down. Pitch 2. 5.9 Climb the slab behind the belay past a couple of thin moves low down to a break. Continue on big holds and good jams to a short easy corner. Climb this and step right to a cramped sloping ledge to belay on decaying slings on spikes. Be careful not to knock anything down.
It is possible to ab the route, but I wouldn't recommend it. It is also possible to sprint down a fixed rope at the back of the route then scramble up a trough to safety, but I wouldn't recommend that either. Instead, make a short traverse left across the front face to easy ground, then climb down easily next to Joyful Jam. You can then walk down past Mamako Iwa and down and round to the front of the crag.

MIYAKO	5.10c*	35m
The corner followed by the cracked slab and prominent brown overhang. Again, good positions and mostly big holds, but the rock's a bit iffy in places.
Pitch 1. 5.7 As for Love Story, climb the loose corner to the second tree. Pull round left onto the front face and climb past a detached flake to a good ledge next to a lonesome pine. Bolt and peg belay. Be careful not to knock anything down. Pitch 2. 5.10c Traverse right behind the belay to a mini-corner. Climb this and the easy slab above to the Weetabixy left edge of the brown overhang. Pull through in a fine position to good cracks in a slab and climb these to belay on decaying slings on spikes on a sloping ledge.
Descend as for Love Story.

Take-chan Man	5.11a*	35m
The steep face starting up and right of MIYAKO and finishing in pretty much the same spot. Scramble up a fixed rope to reach the start.
Climb the steep cracked face with mounting difficulty to a dodgy lower-off.

The Upper Section

Unknown	5.10a*	8m
The short steep face down and left of the terrace at the back of Otouto Iwa (and facing Mamako Iwa). Be careful not to knock anything down. Scramble down to start.
Climb the face on sharp holds to a dodgy lower-off - nice enough, but far too short.

Haru no Ame Agari - The End of the Spring Rain	5.9**	10m
A similar route to its neighbour, but a fraction longer and better. The bolts are totally unnecessary (if you have a rack).
Start on the terrace, left of a tree in a short corner. Make a stiff pull to get established on the face, then climb direct on feelgood holds and jams to the top. The lower-off is the same as for Ogawayama Gekijou.

Joyful Jam	5.9**	10m
The short crack round to the right. If you've got big hands, forget the joy and the jam. Friends 1-3.
Climb the crack to the same lower-off as for Ogawayama Gekijou.

Jangara	5.11b**	10m
The small pinnacle between the summit tower of Otouto Iwa and Mamako Iwa.
Climb the bolted line on the left edge of the steep face to a lower-off. The non-line to the right has been top-roped.

Mamako Iwa - Mother and Child Rock

Slab left	5.10a*	10m
Short, and not very hard.
Climb the lefthand of the two bolt lines on the slab. For some bizarre reason, previously graded 5.10d.

Slab right	5.10d***	10m
The righthand line: harder and better than its neighbour.
Intricate climbing up the righthand of the two bolt lines on the slab. 11a if you resist the arete.

Akko Kante - Akko Arete	5.11c**	10m
A top-rope problem up the left arete of the steep back face.
Power up the arete. Not as hard as it looks. But just as strenuous.

Jiryoku - Magnetic Force	5.12c***	10m
The bolted line to the right of Akko Kante. Harder than it looks. And just as strenuous. Save it for a rainy day.
Don't ask me what to do! It's said to be good.

Chuuoo Line - Central Line	5.12a**	10m
A popular top-rope problem up the next line to the right.
Slap and heave on square holds to the top.

Shige Line	5.11b	10m
The rightmost line. Omitted from the latest guide.
Climb direct about 1m right of Chuuoo Line.

Chichi Iwa - Father Rock

Jakuten Shugi - The Weakness Principle	5.10c**	22m
A nice line up the left of the crag, but the climbing always feels insecure. The idea behind the name is you should follow the weak points. Take care with a loose block in the overhang.
Start at the leftmost point of the slab, and scramble up about 10 metres to a twee little ledge (rope in place, but it's been there a while). Good moves lead up the corner and over the hang. A scary step left starts the easier top slab. Finish slightly right at twin bolts and krabs. Ab/lower-off.

Moralist	5.9**	22m
Not as hard as it looks, but the bolts are quite spaced higher up. The switch from juggy face to slopy slab is quite disconcerting.
Start as for Jakuten Shugi. Climb the arete and face on the right on huge holds, then carefully up the top slab to a chain. Ab/lower-off.

Tajan II - Tarzan II	5.10a***	28m
Pleasant climbing up the centre of the wide slab.
Start at the lowest point of the slab. Climb through two scoops to a terrace (crux). Continue direct using a crack. At the overlap, climb diagonally left to the chain of Moralist. If you have a 50m rope, ab or lower off to the trees on the terrace then ab again or scramble off to the start of Moralist. A 60m rope will get you down in one.

Touhan no Uta - The Song of Ascent	5.10b**	40m
Nice climbing, but not much new ground. Basically Tajan II + a direct finish. The Japanese guide suggests doing it in 3 pitches for multi-pitch practice.
Climb Tajan II, then, just below the big break, move straight up to the tree on Ganpeki no Chichi. Continue direct to another tree to finish. Ab/lower off, depending on how much rope you came with.

Kanpeki na Chichi - The Perfect Father	5.10c**	28m
Nice climbing in a direct line just right of Tajan II.
Start at a vertical dike right of Tajan II. Climb this and continue direct to a ledge below a big booming flake. Pull onto this then continue in a direct line to a tree and lower-off. 10b if you use the flake on the right to get to the third bolt. If lowering off on a 50m rope, aim right (facing in).

Ganpeki no Chichi - Father of the Rock	5.10b***	22m
Good climbing up a good line.
Start at the right edge of the slab. Climb over the first overlap, then follow the obvious overlapping line up and left past some thin moves to a junction with Touhan no Uta. Up this to a tree in the big break. You can finish here or up Touhan no Uta.

Retasu Batake de Tsukamatte - Caught in the Lettuce Patch	5.10d***	23m
Excellent climbing up the right edge of the slab, though the crux is unfortunately close to Ganpeki no Chichi.
Start as for Ganpeki no Chichi. Climb direct to a tree past 3 overlaps and a thinks-it's-a-crack. Worth climbing, if only to see how sexy the last bolt is.

Ku wa Kuraimaa no Ku - C is for Climber	5.10c***	18m
Enjoyable climbing on small sharp holds. The first bolt is a bit dodgy.
Start on top of the big ledge on the left of the righthand slab. Climb slightly rightward to an overlap. Pull over and climb slightly leftward to a lower-off.

Ogawayama Monogatari - Ogawayama story	5.9*****	30m
Excellent climbing up the white streak in the centre of the long (and getting longer) slender slab.
Climb the slab to the top - sustained, quality stuff. You're not allowed to use the corner at the bottom.
If you're using a 60m rope, you can get down in one go. Otherwise, ab or lower off to the terrace up and left of the start (from which Ku wa Kuraimaa no Ku starts).

Ogawayama Street	5.10a***	26m
More good climbing up the righthand line. For better or worse, the Bolt Police rearranged the bolts on this, turning the middle three bolts into two. The fourth clip is now far but steady, the fifth is a real twat.
Step onto the slab from slightly up and right and climb the righthand line to a lower-off. Technical crux at the top, head crux reaching the fifth bolt.

Measure of Leg Length	5.9**	15m
The pleasant jamming crack round the back of Ogawayama Monogatari. Take a rack of medium-large runners.
Start 20m up the slope to the right. Climb the rightward-leading crackline to a terrace and tree.

Sausage	5.9*	10m
The chimney and crack further right. Take a rack of medium-large runners.
Pull out of the chimney onto a good foothold, then climb the crack to the terrace. Ab off the tree of Measure of Leg Length.

Haha Iwa - Mother Rock

The slab to the right of Otouto Iwa. Recently developed and looking like it is being reclaimed by Mother Nature, but with a handful of quality slab routes. Charlie Chainsaw paid a visit in summer 2002, but left his brain at home.

Cross the river as for Ani Iwa. Where the path climbs up to the upper crag, follow a less well defined path horizontally right past Otouto Iwa. When this path starts going uphill towards Mamako Iwa, break out right for 50m to a big dirty slab. The small steep face down and right is Mekake Iwa.

Inochi no Haha - Mother of Life	5.5	10m
Dull and dirty climbing. Take a Friend 2/2.5.
Climb up to a flake at the left edge of the slab. Where the flake ends, move up and left to twin bolts with unlinked chains.

Tajisura - Tarsla	5.9*	11m
More nondescript climbing.
Start left of a small overlap and climb direct to the same twin bolts as Inochi no Haha. A 5.10a variation start traverses in under the overlap from just left of Sudden Story. You read it here first.

Sudden Story	5.10a*	10m
Standard slab fare after a slippy start.
Climb direct to a tree and lower-off. Crux low down.

Panpee - Pumpy	5.10c***	17m
An excellent pitch - varied with an exciting finish. The moss in the lower groove does not (significantly) affect the route.
Start left of a flake. Climb into a shallow groove, pull out right and go up to a second groove. Up this using a fragile flake, then right over an easy slab to twin cracks in a steep wall. Monkey up these and make a stirring move up the finishing slab to a tree. Ab/lower off.

Akusai Kenbo - Bad Wife, Clever Mother	5.10d**	18m
Interesting, but not all there.
Climb past a couple of flakes (Friend 1.5) to a break (Friend 3). Move left and up a tricky wall using another flake (Rock 4ish), then climb a slab to the finish of Panpee. The bottom is now (Summer 2007) very dirty.

Dakishimetai - I Want to Hold You	5.11c***	18m
Another excellent, varied pitch and exciting finish.
Start under the centre of the big hang. Climb up to and over an overlap (often wet) then make a hard move to gain an easy slab (probably needs a brush). Up this, over the hang in gorilla mode then ab or lower off.

Touhan no Subete de Luxe - All about Climbing de Luxe	5.10c***	38m
The corner and slab above. Excellent. Take small and medium Friends and some wires.
Climb over easy slabs to the foot of the corner (often wet, but still doable). Up this and pull over the big hang on jugs on the right. The slab above has one nasty move. Finish in an almost direct line at a tree.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the top of Mother Earth and ab again. You can also scramble to the top behind the tree and walk down to the right of the crag (facing in).

Mother Earth	5.10d**	15m
Worth another star if the crack gets a good brushing. Take Friends 2-3.
Start on a ledge down and right of the main slab. Step left onto a slab and make a worrying move to the foot of a short steep wall with an obvious jug. Stretch for this then heave up for a crack that might be full of pine needles. Up this more easily to a lower-off.

Ogawamama	5.9	10m
A non-event.
Start as for Mother Earth and climb (or, better, don't) direct to a lower-off.

Eightman	5.8***	35m
A very pleasant trip. Some of the holds are crumbly, but most are huge.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Start round to the right and at a higher level than the main slab. Step left onto the slab, move up and slightly left, then climb direct to a bolt belay on a big ledge with a fallen tree. Have a picnic and enjoy the view. You can walk off to the right (facing in). Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the slab left of the belay, go right to a tree in a corner, then pull up to a tree at the top. Ab off, walk off to the right (facing in), or walk up to Chichi Iwa (5 minutes).

Red Storm	5.10b*	10m
The left side of the short wall right of Eightman. Technical and better than it looks.
Start up and right of Eightman. Step off the left slab onto the steepish right wall then climb diagonally right and up to a flake. Up this more easily to a tree and lower-off.

Jack Frost	5.9	10m
Another non-event.
Start just right of Red Storm and climb diagonally left to join it above its crux. Take care with some of the holds, especially lower down. (See if you can count how many times the first bolt has been repositioned.)

Mekake Iwa - Mistress Rock

Crane I	5.9	9m
Crusty and dirty climbing. As of summer, 2003, the bolts are AWOL and unlikely to be missed.
Start round to the left of the main face, left of a wide crack. Climb direct left of the crack to the top. Not sure if there's a lower-off or not.

Crane II	5.8	9m
Ditto this: another crap route. As of summer, 2003, the bolts are AWOL and unlikely to be missed.
Climb direct right of the wide crack. Where the angle relents, pull up to a lower-off on the left.

The Firm	5.11b*	12m
Fingery climbing up the left of the front face.
The first bolt is just under the small overhang. Gain it from the left or right, depending on which holds pull off. Pull over on better holds and continue direct to a junction with Crane II.

Jealousy	5.12c**	12m
Very fingery climbing up the right of the front face.
Start at the right edge of the front face. Climb to a break and pull left over this to get established on the face. Continue direct to a lower-off at the top.

Temptation	5.10d*	12m
The arete and slab on the right of the face.
Start as for Jealousy. Pull up and steeply right to gain the arete, then pull round to its right and climb slabbily to a lower-off.

The Ant and the Grasshopper	5.10b*	11m
Worth another star if the bottom section ever stops falling down.
Start under the centre of the smaller righthand buttress. Climb up to and over an overlap on Lego to the foot of a slab. Make neat moves up this using the arete, then a final steep pull to a lower-off.

Laputa no Tou - Laputa Tower

Laputa	5.11c****	18m
A cracking slab route that gets steadily harder to the crux last move.
Start left of a cutaway, where the slab blends into the hillside. Climb slightly right then direct past a dike and a big break to the top and a lower-off.

Sheeta	5.10b***	18m
A good pitch with a scary step above the second bolt and some airy climbing up the top slab. A bit stiff for the grade (and I put it up from 5.10a!).
Start on a terrace round to the right of Laputa. Climb a short easy wall to get established on a ledge on the right. Pull onto the slab and climb up and right to join the arete. Swing round to the left and use a crack to finish just right of Laputa.

Pazoo	5.12c**	10m
A short steep route round to the right of Sheeta. Tie your second to a tree.
Climb the leaning wall, with no respite, to the lower-off of Laputa.

Utsurundesu - Taking Pictures	5.10a	10m
A short, quality-free route just down the gully from Laputa no Tou.
Climb the face using vague cracks and breaks to a tree.

Riverside

Sonatina	5.9**	17m
Better than it looks. Worth another star if/when clean. Take Friends 1-3 for the flake.
Climb through some jungle to a ledge and the start of the route. Climb a tricky face to the flake, up this and exit right to a lower-off.

Black Sheep	5.9****	18m
An excellent, varied pitch. 'Good value' for the grade.
Make a long reach for a flake and pull onto the slab. Go up to some flakey flakes and step left and climb a short groove to a right-leaning ramp. Follow this very awkwardly to its end, then dodge left round a bulge and go up to a lower-off.

Joconda	5.10d***	25m
A good slab pitch with a tasty crux move and delightful climbing above.
Climb the attractive flake past a peg to the slab proper. The peg was looking good in 2000, but be careful, all the same. Easier climbing leads to a stopper move off the ramp. Make sure you do it, though, because the climbing above is great. Move up to a slanting dike then hand-traverse this to a lower-off.

Half Cocktail	5.11b*	10m
A worthwhile filler up the short slab between the starts of Joconda and Toki no Odori.
Climb the slab to a lower-off. Sustained, with the crux at the top.

Toki no Odori - The Dance of Time	5.10c**	25m
Another good slab pitch with a stiff crux. The start can be green, but don't be put off.
Throw yourself in to two high pockets. Move up and right into a corner (Friend 2 if you need it), then curve left almost to Joconda and back right to quartz holds below an almost-crack. Climb this past one harsh move to a lower-off. An easier variation (5.10a) traverses past the almost-crack then goes up and back left to the lower-off.

Forte	5.11d	20m
Rarely climbed, and now very dirty.
Start on the ledge running in from the right. Very sustained climbing leads to the dike, above which saunter up the slab to the lower-off of Toki no Odori. The Japanese guide recommends pre-clipping the first bolt.

Carmen	5.12b	10m
An unknown quantity: it probably hasn't had a second ascent.
Start on the ledge running in from the right. Climb the steep slab past a desperate mantel to a dike and lower-off. Also said to be impossible for the short.

Koala	5.10b	23m
A once-good pitch, gone to earth. Shame, because it's a lovely line. Take a rack and blowtorch. The bolted line to the right has been unclimbed and unclaimed for as long as I can remember.
Climb up to the flake/corner. Climb it, then move slightly left and up to a crack. Up this to a tree. Ab/lower off or walk off to the right (facing in).

Out of Balance	5.8**	15m
Pleasant climbing up a strong natural line. And if that's not corn, I don't know what is.
Follow the shallow bolted crack direct to a lower-off. Crux at half height.

Madame Butterfly	5.10a*	15m
The slab to the right. Not much of a line, but nice enough climbing. Friend 2.5 in the overlap.
Flubber to an overlap below twin pockets. Fun moves lead to a mantel onto a superjug. Pass the next bolt on the left and climb direct to a lower-off. A dirty variation passes the bolt above the superjug on the right at 5.10d.

The Upper Tier

Rendezvous	5.11a**	18m
Good climbing up the left side of the wall. The Japanese guide says it's an easy route to onsight, but I don't remember thinking that.
Start at the left end of the terrace above Out of Balance. Climb easily over the broken lower wall and make a tricky step up onto the cleaner face. Don't touch Bunbun. Left and up to a scary move and a lower-off.

Bunbun	5.11b***	12m
Sustained climbing up the central line.
Zigzag steeply past a slanting crack and flake to a right-facing flake/corner. Up this to a lower-off on the right.

DOKUFU - Evil Woman	5.11a*	15m
The righthand line. A soft touch.
Steep moves up lead to the crux move getting stood up in the horizontal crack. After that, there's some pleasant jug-pulling to the lower-off of Bunbun.

Kakushiko Iwa - Love Child Rock

Bluto	5.10a*	12m
The left arete. Not bad. Take medium Friends.
Climb up near the lefthand edge of the lowest overhang. Reach left for a good crack and swing over. Follow the arete to a communal lower-off.

Love Child	5.10c**	14m
The central line: the best route on the crag, and worth finding.
Start at the right edge of the lowest overhang. Pull steeply up and make a committing move to gain a crack. Continue semi-directly on good holds to the lower-off.

Wimpy	5.10b*	18m
A contrived bit of crack-finding. Take a rack.
Start just left of the corner of Olive. Pull up, then traverse left along the break almost to Bluto. Follow either of two disjointed cracklines to the top.

Popeye	5.10c	15m
The bolt line to the right of Love Child. Unexceptional.
Pull up as for Wimpy, but continue direct, using an arete on the right. The top crack is easy, but take small/medium Friends for insurance.

Olive	5.10a	15m
The rightmost line. Take a rack.
Huff and puff up the short steep corner to join, appropriately enough, Popeye.

Cal and Rich	5.11a	5m
A trivial top-rope problem up the short wall directly above Kakushiko Iwa. In fact, I'm being generous with 5m.
Find it, climb it and wonder why.

Fueromon no Oo Iwa - Pheromone Big Rock

Fueromon no Dai Oo - Great King Pheromone	5.12a**	8m
Errr.
Traverse, mantel, lower-off.

Tamago Iwa - The Egg

Nutella	5.12b*	10m
The centre of the short face down and left from The Egg.
Crimp the centre of the face left of the crack to a lower-off.

Tamago - The Egg	5.13b**	10m
The diagonal line up the front face of the supposedly egg-shaped rock.
Piece the bolts together by a series of desperate moves.

Imouto Iwa - Little Sister Rock

Ninpou - The Ninja Way	5.12d	10m
Very steep and very hard. Rumours of 13a abound.
Start round to the right of Casablanca. Boulder through the bulges on the righthand line to a lower-off.

No More Rain	5.12a****	20m
An excellent, steep jug puller up the longer lefthand line. Very popular.
Pull into the corner and climb up till barred by your own private overhang. Dodge left round this and continue to where the angle eases. Pleasantly up the slab to a lower-off.

Casablanca	5.10b****	25m
A superb crack pitch, marred only by the fact that it finishes in the middle of nowhere. Take a rack, but ditch the tinies and go heavy on the Friends. The crack is flared in places, so watch those placements.
Follow the crack all the way to a lower-off. Very sustained after the first 10m.

Tatsu no Kotarou - Kotarou the Dragon	5.9***	40m
Another good crack climb.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Climb the wide crack just left of Casablanca to a ledge and belay. Your gear will have to be very big and/or very small. Pitch 2. 5.9 Climb the wide crack behind the belay on the right in a sort of slippery way past a tree to the top. Walk off to the right (facing in).

Oni Taiji - Exorcising Demons	5.9	30m
The wide crack left of the top pitch of Tatsu no Kotarou. Hardly ever climbed.
Step left from the stance of Tatsu no Kotarou and climb the wide crack till it becomes a flake. Where the flake curves left, pull over and move up to a lower-off. (But remember: it's 30m to the stance!)

Papillon	5.10a****	40m
The stars are for the top pitch. The bottom pitch is never climbed.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Climb the dirty recessed crack round to the left of Tatsu no Kotarou to a tree belay. Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the corner behind the tree then pull into the crack in the right wall. Follow this in a superb position till it becomes a flake and bends back left into the corner. Up the corner to a lower-off and be careful not to knock anything down.

Jack to Mame no Ki - Jack and the Beanstalk	5.10b*****	25m
Superb jamming. Finish up Papillon for one of the best outings at Ogawayama.
The start can be dank, but don't let that put you off. Climb the steep crack left of the arete on beefy jams till it thins and leads round the arete to a tree belay. Don't lower off! Do Papillon!

Taiyakiyaita	5.11a	35m
The scruffy crack left of Jack to Mame no Ki, followed by the slab left of Papillon. Never climbed.
Pitch 1. 5.11a Climb the dirty crack to a bolt, then traverse into Jack to Mame no Ki and follow this to the tree belay. Pitch 2. 5.10c Pull onto the slabby left arete as soon as possible and follow this to a lower-off.

Yokorenbo - Illicit Love	5.10c**	30m
The crack left again and right of the big dirty corner is easier and cleaner than it looks.
Follow the crack direct to where it disappears then traverse left and go up to a tree belay. You can avoid the crux top moves by traversing left below the final steep section. This makes the route a more even 5.10a. Note the route length if lowering off!

Aijou Monogatari - Love Story	5.8**	20m
The slanting crack in the big slab to the left. Gear can be hard to place.
Follow the crack to a lower-off. This is the stance of Cassiopoea Kidou, so be prepared to share.

Cassiopoea Kidou - Cassiopoea Orbit	5.10b****	40m
One of the original Ogawayama classics - which invariably means run-out on shite bolts and hard for the grade. And it is. Polished to boot. But it's still a classic.
Pitch 1. 5.10b 20m Climb the centre of the slab past a frightening mantel onto a dike to an overhang. Skirt this on its left then go up and follow a flake to a bolt belay. You can also pull through the overhang at the first step and climb direct to the belay. Pitch 2. 5.10b 20m Step right to a couple of flakes and climb these. Continue direct to the third bolt. Drop down and move left round a rib, then climb direct to a lower-off.

Orion	5.11c**	20m
A rarely climbed route up the left edge of the slab. Take a Friend 2.5ish for the corner.
Climb carefully up to and over a bulge to a corner. Up this then make a hard move up the steep slab above to gain easier climbing to a lower-off.

The next four routes are gained by climbing up and around three trees in the gully to the left of Orion. After 5 or 6 metres, step right under a big dying cedar (I think - I'm not good at trees), then go up to a cramped terrace wedged between two faces, noting the potential of the whole caboodle for collapse. If you have any doubts, rope up!

Rarigurasu - Lariglas	5.11a*	16m
A rather unsatisfying slab pitch. The third clip is a gripper.
Start just up and left of where Orion almost steps onto the terrace. Climb neatly up a faint rib to the first bolt. Thin moves lead up to and onto a dike. Use a small flake on the left to make crux moves up to a flaky line leading up and left. Follow this to an awkward step up to join Manzu Magnum just below the lower-off.

Manzu Magnum	5.10d**	12m
Interesting and sustained climbing up the slabby groovy flaky line.
Start up and left of Rarigurasu. Climb the groove and exit it with difficulty. More delicate moves lead to an easier slab and a lower-off.

Psycho Mosquito	5.11c**	24m
The steeper wall opposite Manzu Magnum. Very fingery.
Pull up to a traverse line leading right. Follow this, then pull up again and follow the bolts to the ridge in a good position. Lower off.

Ayaka	5.10c***	22m
Good face-climbing to the left of Psycho Mosquito. Ayaka is a girl's name. Also known as Saika.
Start almost at the left edge of the wall. Pull up and step right. Climb direct for a few metres then move right again. Finish direct in a good position. Lower off. Spaced bolts offer the opportunity of some good wangers. Not that you'd find me wanging.

The next five routes climb the rock left of the trees that get you up to Ayaka etc. Apart from Yellow Crash, they haven't been climbed in donkeys' and should be treated with suspicion.

Kogito - Cogito(?)	5.10a*	30m
A scruffy approach leads to a good open finish. Take a rack.
Start on the wedged boulder. Traverse left under a rib and go up to twin cracks. Climb these till they peter out, then continue past a bolt to join the right arete. Climb this in a good position to the top. It's better to have someone follow to get the gear, then ab off down Ayaka. Otherwise ab rather than lower off.

Ierou Kurasshu - Yellow Crash	5.12a*****	20m
A wonderful steep jug-puller, usually with in situ dogger.
Start down and left of the main crag. Scramble up to a big tree just off the path and below a streaked wall. Climb the steep, unrelenting wall to a lower-off.

The next three routes start up a chimney about 30m left of Yellow Crash. Follow a faint path into the bush under Yellow Crash, keeping as close to the base of the rocks as possible. Mind your step, too - this is toilet country.

Samson	5.10b*	32m
A good long line, but the grunge is winning. Take a rack.
Climb to the chimney and follow it to a tree. Climb the continuation crack through an overlap to a flake (crux). Climb the flake to a corner and follow this to the top. Ab off or walk off to the left facing in.

Delilah	5.10a	14m
Very dirty.
Start just left of Samson. Climb the easy cramped face diagonally left to a crack in the overlap. Climb this (crux) to a horizontal tree. Ab off.

Blind Corner	5.8	30m
More dirt.
Start at a tree left of Delilah, gained from that route. Climb the wide crack above to a corner and climb the corner to the top. Ab off or walk off to the left facing in.

Mara Iwa - Dick Rock

The impressive pinnacle to the right of Imouto Iwa.

Follow the Kimpu-san highway to the chain across the road. Turn left, cross the river above the dam and follow a path up the big dry stream. After a short while the path cuts left across the stream and disappears into the jungle at a cairn. This path leads to the foot of Mara Iwa. The routes are described from right to left, starting at the bottom and right of the main rock. You can also get to Mara Iwa by following a path up and right from Riverside to Imouto Iwa.

Yane no Ue no Tajan - Tarzan on the Roof	5.9**	15m
A very pleasant slab, set just to the right of Mara Iwa itself.
Step up onto the slab, move out slightly left, then pad neatly to a lower-off below a protruding boulder.

The next four routes exist on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. I haven't done them and, barring momentous developments in the world of bionics, never will. There are also bolts in the roof behind Keyhead - I think some of these belong to a route called Cave Keyhead, but that's all I don't know about them.

Matatabi	5.14a*	10m
This means either "Silvervine" or "The Wandering Life of a Gambler", depending on which way up you hold your dictionary. A line up the right of the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Strenuous and technical?
Traverse right out of The Specialist then finish direct.

Nekomata - XXX	5.14a*	10m
The central line on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Strenuous and technical?
Traverse not so far right out of The Specialist then finish direct.

The Specialist	5.13d**	15m
The central, direct line on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Strenuous and technical? Said to be the best of the bunch.
Well...

Melange	5.14c*	10m
The lefthand line on the roof under Yane no Ue no Tajan. Err... Ridiculously strenuous and technical?
Well...

Keyhead	5.10c*	12m
A rarely climbed route that skirts the cave on its left to finish up a crack. Take a set of Friends. It may have lost some holds that help you pull into the crack.
Climb the face just inside the cave to a bolt. Pull into the crack running out of the cave and follow this to the terrace at the back of Mara Iwa.

Silk Road	5.12c*****	25m
A superb face route.
Start between Keyhead and Sukizofurenii. Climb direct by reachy moves till almost level with the terrace on the right. Ignore the lower-off and traverse to the terrace.

Petashiman	5.13c**	50m
Lots of length, but not much quality. A (long) variation finish to Silk Road.
Climb Silk Road, but at the start of the traverse move up and left and climb the arete. Finish up Rocky Road or Stairway to Heaven.

Excellent Power	5.13a*****	50m
No new ground, but an excellent feeling if you pull this off!
Climb Silk Road, but halfway along the final traverse pull up and climb Rocky Road.

Sukizofurenii - Schizophrenia	5.11c***	20m
The big bottomless corner low and right on Mara Iwa. Take a rack.
Start almost directly below the corner. Move up and slightly left, then back right to reach the corner (crux). Climb this to a lower-off on the left.

Stairway to Heaven	5.12a***	35m
The big frontal rib. Originally started from the top of Holiday. The bolts are rather sportingly placed.
From the top of Sukizofurenii, pull up to the rib and climb it on its left. Traverse right into a shallow corner, climb this and finish direct.

Holiday	5.9***	18m
A good route with one gripper move up the groove and excellent climbing up the flake. Take a rack.
Start below the short groove. Climb up to, into, and out of it with increasing difficulty. Reach for the flake, praise the Lord, and layback all too quickly to a tree and lower-off.

Orange Road	5.11a**	14m
The righthand side of the slabby lower rib used to be very popular, but is now seldom climbed. Buggered if I know why.
Start down and right of the rib. Pull up onto it and follow it on small holds to a tree and lower-off. The crux is getting stood above the first bolt. It might be worth getting your second to belay over to the right as the bolt seems perfectly placed to flip you over if you bale.

Gankou Oyaji - Stubborn Old Man	5.11d**	15m
The lefthand side of the slabby lower rib has never been popular. Buggered if I know why too. Some hard slab moves and a low completion rate.
Start left of the rib. Step up onto the slab and move up into a short groove. Climb this, step left and make a desperate smear up and left to a vague flake. Move back right, then up to a tree and lower-off.

JECC Route	5.10d***	17m
Another of the original classics. Enjoyable, sustained slab-climbing after a bold start.
Start at the lowest point of the slab. Climb a thin flake (wires) and mantel onto a sloping ledge where it ends. Climb direct to a barely discernible line of pockets slanting right to a tree and lower-off. From the tree, climb easily up the crack to clip the lower-off above the direct line of the route. Take care not to slip off with your finger in one of the pockets. The direct finish is 11a.

Todoke, Te no Hira - Reach, Palm!	5.10c***	20m
A very enjoyable slab pitch with one hard move. Low in the grade.
Start by a tree where the slab slants up to the left. Climb easily rightward to the centre of the slab. Go up to pockets and make a long hard reach for a big hole. Mantel, then climb easily to a ledge and lower-off.

Tenka-chan	5.11b***	20m
The left edge of the broad front slab of Mara Iwa. A slippery and frustrating crux. You'll be better off for a Friend 2.5 in the final crack.
Start just left of Todoke, Te no Hira. Climb easily up to scoopy bit. Move out right and up (crux) to a slanting crack leading back left to a lower-off.

Tokimeki wo Arigatou - Thanks for the Memories	5.11d*	18m
The obvious direct finish to Tenka-chan.
Follow Tenka-chan to where it moves right, then climb direct to the lower-off.

Muudo wa Ii Sen - Good Mood Route	5.8**	19m
A good, varied pitch. Better than it looks. Take a rack of medium Friends and wires.
Start a few metres up the slope from Tenka-chan, below and left of a niche. Climb up and into the niche. Pull out on the left and make a neat hand traverse and mantel to reach a lower-off at tree.

Pink Panther	5.10d	17m
A dirty route - never climbed. Take a rack, should you choose to break the mould.
Start a few metres up the slope from Muudo wa Ii Sen, below a disappearing crack. Pull up to the first crack, follow it, step left and climb a second crack to the tree of Muudo wa Ii Sen.

Mara Iwa - Back Face

Access to the routes on the back face of Mara Iwa now requires a tough short scramble over tree roots and boulders. There are fixed ropes in place, but even so, care is required. Small people with small sacks might prefer the speleological approach.

Kaettekita Kaitaku Oo - The Return of the New Route King	5.11c***	20m
A fun route centred on the obvious beak of Mara Iwa.
Start level with the top of Pink Panther and just to the right of Kawakami Kouta. Tie your second to a tree, then climb steeply to an overhang guarding a slab. Use the beak to pull onto the slab, then make a couple of tricky moves up to a lower-off below the top.

Kawakami Kouta - Song of Kawakami	5.8****	15m
The line of weaknesses on the right of the back face of Mara Iwa leaves you in a lovely position. Finish "à cheval" for maximum effect.
Start just right of a corner. Pull steeply onto a ledge, move right and step up onto the slab. Move left to a flake and climb this till it ends. Finish direct.

Santao XXX	5.8*	25m
The flake and slab left of Kawakami Kouta. Quite runout!
Climb Kawakami Kouta to the third bolt, then make a long, rising, leftward traverse to the top flake on Black Hole. Up this to a lower-off. Can also be started from a shallow flake behind the tree left of the start of Kawakami Kouta (10a and only one rusty old home-made bolt).

Black Hole	5.12b***	20m
A very intricate face climb.
Start down low, left of a corner. Hard moves out of the hole lead to an easy but unprotected slab finish.

Irregular	5.10d***	20m
The face left again on spaced staples. Good moves, but it's hard to stay cool. The first bolt is usually clipped by leaning in off the boulder.
Start down between the boulder and face. Climb steeply up on sharp holds to the easier top slab, almost joining Regular at one point. Continue to a choice of lower-offs.

Regular	5.10b***	20m
The next line to the left is much easier than it looks and very popular.
Top to bottom, dot to dot. Lower off. A parallel line to the left was bolted and climbed several years ago. The bolts then disappeared for a few years, but were back in May 2007. 10c if you fancy.

Blues Power	5.11c****	15m
The left arete of the back face of Mara Iwa. Superb. Take a Friend 2.
Start on the boulder overlooking Keyhead etc. Step out left above the void and climb up left of the arete to a stiff pull back to the right. Continue in a sensational position to a lower-off at the top.

Juggernaut	5.12a**	25m
A line to the left of Blues Power. Somewhat artificial and overshadowed by its neighbours, but still good.
Start as for Blues Power. Step out left, then climb direct to a crack (you have to stay on the left of the arete) (apparently). Up this to a lower-off.

Rocky Road	5.12a****	25m
The right facing groove high and right on Mara Iwa.