This is what I decided to call the group of rocks centred on Gojira Iwa, which line the north slope of the next prominent stream south of Karasawa. This appeared in old topos under the name 'Perseus Za Ryuusei Gun' (and Gojira Iwa was a different rock on the opposite side of the stream).
For the interested, there is a huge face on the south side of the south slope of this stream. From a distance this is a gobsmacker, but not so hot from closer up. Still, there are lines to be had. I spotted one old bolt up there.

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)

1 Nagare Boshi Pitch 1
2 Kinseijin
3 Godzilla Lower Tier
4 Godzilla Upper Tier
5 Kaseijin
6 Tracy Island
7 Inseki

Kinseijin

A two-tiered slab found by yours truly on the slopes below and right of Godzilla. I did the first routes in September 2001.

Follow the highway to Kimpu-san for not quite three kilometres to a small shrine on the right (about 500m after Phoenix Rock). Follow the stream bed just right of the shrine for 20m till blocked by a rock step. If this is dry, just keep heading up the stream, otherwise, take a detour to the right through grassy woods to return to the stream about 70m higher up (if in doubt, head back left to the stream). Continue to a huge squarish boulder in the stream, then cross it and zig zag up to a slab on the left. Prends ton Temps starts where the slab tapers almost to a point by a huge fallen cedar.

Kinseijin

The Lower Tier

Rockfist 5.10b** 26m

A neat slab pitch, but the bottom few metres may require a brush. The top half stays clean.

Start 5m right of the fallen tree below a faint ledge. Mantel onto the ledge and climb direct to a double overlap past some deep pockets (bomber Friend 4). Pull over the first overlap, smear carefully to the second and mantel precariously over this. Continue directly up the slab, past a break, to finish at the lower-off of Prends ton Temps. A 50m rope will be just enough to get you down.

Prends ton Temps - Take your Time 5.10a*** 27m

An excellent varied pitch, as long as it stays clean (I recleaned and climbed it in November 2009). The flake takes good Friends 1-2½.

Start at the roots of the big fallen tree, by a small flake. Climb up and right into the centre of the slab, then go direct to a big overlap. Pull over to a big flake on the left and layback this till it ends at another overlap. Step left and pull over using a marvellous crystal in a pocket, then climb direct on good, spaced holds to a lower-off. A 50m rope will be just enough to get you down.

The Upper Tier

For the Upper Tier, skirt the slab on its right, then work back diagonally to its top and a huge cedar right of an easy-angled slab. Ab off this to the pine needle terrace (tree and bolt belay). This is just under 25m, so make sure you put a knot at the end of your rope! (Or go off a lower tree.)

Otoshiboshi - Fallen Star 5.10a** 15m

A neat slab pitch on perfect rock.

From near the right edge of the ledge of pine needles, step onto the big dike and follow the bolts as they curve up and left to a lower-off.

Ogawayama Chainsaw Daigyakusatsu - Ogawayama Chainsaw Massacre 5.10a* 15m

Not quite so good as its neighbour, but an interesting crux.

From the centre of the ledge of pine needles, step onto the big dike at a big hole. Move up and left to gain an improving flake (crux), mantel onto the jug this becomes, then slab easily to the lower-off.

Gojira Iwa - Godzilla Rock

A cluster of prominent buttresses high on the right side of the valley that heads up to Kimpu-san.

Follow the highway to Kimpu-san for about three kilometres. So you go past Phoenix Rock, past a clearing and turning point in the highway, past the small shrine on the right. At a big (but usually dry) stream coming down from the right, about 100m past the shrine where you turn off for Kinseijin, turn right and follow a becairned path up and up the stream for 200m. At a fallen tree across the stream, the path cuts up and right. This leads into as yet unspoilt pine forest, so be good. The path in the forest is marked with red tape. Godzilla Rock is the first two rock towers you see from the stream (the third is Kaseijin).

A single route starts from the level of the highway and finishes way up there.

Nagareboshi Meguri - Wishing on a Star 5.10c* 190m

A long and meandering route that involves quite a bit of walking. Still, good for a bit of sightseeing. Start at the slab just right of the highway and left of a tumbledown wall held up by a magnificent tree.

Pitch 1. 5.9     Climb the centre of the dirty, overlapping slab - easier and more pleasant than it looks. Pull into the woods at the top using a flake embedded in a dead tree. Belay on a tree of choice. Walk up and left 5m to a terrace below a crumbly face.
Pitch 2. 5.10b Start on the right of the bulging lower face. Move up and pull out left into the centre of the face. Climb the slim slab above to a lovely picnic spot in the forest. Follow a path up and right for 30m to a slab.
Pitch 3. 5.8     Climb the centre of the dirty but pleasant slab to a ledge. Pull through bulges on the right to another slab and climb this to the top. Walk up and left about 25m to a tiny face with a good crack and two bolts.
Pitch 4. 5.8     Climb the tiny face. Rope hardly necessary. Rejoin the path and trudge up and left for 30m to an almost impressive face. Follow the base of this left to a bolt line in a sandy slab.
Pitch 5. 5.10c Take care with rope drag on this pitch. Climb the slab to a couple of trees. Pull over onto the cleaner top slab and follow the bolts up this with an odd kink left just below the top. Belay on a good ledge.
Pitch 6. 5.6     Climb steeply past a couple of bolts to easy ground. Follow a fault right behind a tree then climb an easy, crumbling face slightly leftwards to a trough. Belay here, then scramble up to the knob behind the belay and walk off into the hillside. Head left to the next clump of rocks.
Pitch 7. 5.8     Climb the centre of the pleasant slab past a tree and overlap to a big terrace. This puts you at the extreme right edge of Godzilla Lower Tier.
Pitch 8. 5.9     Climb the disjointed cracks left behind the belay to another terrace. This puts you at the right edge of Godzilla Upper Tier.
Pitch 9. 5.8     Climb easy, broken slabs to a big ledge.

Descend by either following the path that the route intermittently uses (drop down and right from the top of the route, then follow a path down the gully keeping the rocks of the route first on your right, then on your left) or by dropping down and left to the col in front of Kaseijin and following the path down from there.

Godzilla, Ogawayama-style - looks like this:

Gojira Iwa

Godzilla Lower Tier

The impressive just-overhanging wall and the jumbled walls to its right.

Midori no Kire Me - Green Gap 5.10a 35m

Partially dropped from the last two guides, and hardly surprising, really. I haven't done the first or last pitch. If you do it, try playing 'Spot the Clean Hold'.

Pitch 1. - 5.9? Where the terrace leads out from the hillside, pull up onto the dirty slabby rib on the left of the steep wall and follow it to the terrace below the Upper Tier.
Pitch 2. - 5.7 Climb the crack and the face around it to land in a trench.
Pitch 3. - 5.9? Climb the dirty crack and slab left of Ansaraa to a lower-off.

Akko Kante 2 - Akko Arete 2 5.12a** 14m

The easiest route on the steep face skirted on the way to the upper crag.

Start in the centre of the face, below the right edge of a ramp. Gain the ramp and gorilla left almost to the arete. Pull up and climb the arete in a good position to a lower-off.

Sunkissed 5.13b*** 15m

Steep and fingery climbing up the wall right of Akko Kante 2.

Climb the ramp, as for Akko Kante 2, but halfway along, pull onto the ramp and climb direct to a flake. Kink right then left to get over this, then finish direct. Lower off.

Ouga - Yellow River 5.13a**** 15m

Marginally easier but more satisfying climbing to the right of Sunkissed. It sounds like I've done these routes, doesn't it!

Start the ramp as for Akko Kante 2, but pull up onto the ramp immediately and climb direct by technical moves on baby sharpies for three bolts. Move left to the flake and finish as for Sunkissed.

Chabinba 5.13a** 13m

Strenuous climbing up the centre of the wall.

Start behind the big tree on the terrace (the Japanese guide recommends pre-clipping the first bolt from the tree - but you wouldn't do that, would you?). Climb direct (crux) to the second bolt, then step right and climb direct till level with a flake. The original route moves left to the flake, then up to finish. A variation goes up then left.

Mushoku no Natsu Yasumi - Summer on the Dole 5.12b*** 13m

Steep, strenuous climbing on generally good holds. Said to be reminiscent of Yellow Crash.

Start a couple of metres right of Chabinba and climb almost directly to the top. Also said to be a soft touch for primates. Pass the peanuts, Mr. Shifter.

The following three routes are reached by following the fixed rope right from the right edge of the terrace. This rope is not to be trusted. If you have any doubts about the traverse, rope up!

Senshuuraku 5.12c** 12m

A direct line up the steep wall immediately after the end of the fixed rope. Senshuuraku is the name of the last day of a 15-day sumo tournament.

Follow the bolts. Sustained.

Shinkocchou - True Colours 5.12a*** 12m

Powerful moves up the intimidating wall at the right end of the fixed rope.

Pull over the initial bulge, then climb direct on halfway decent holds till things get dirty. Fortunately the holds get better. Finish direct.

Cossack Dance 5.11c 12m

A nice idea, but a dreadful route. Overbolted, dirty and loose.

Scramble over easy ground to the foot of a dank cleft. Climb this by a combination of bridging, back-and-footing and giving-up-and-pulling-on-bolts till it is possible to climb the right wall to a ledge and lower-off.

Godzilla Upper Tier

The slabby top tower. The first route climbs the narrow buttress up on the left on the way to the upper crag

Himeshara 5.12b** 13m

A good steep face route. Himeshara is a kind of tree, which, to the best of my surfing ability, translates as Tall Stewartia. Maybe there's one of them round here somewhere. Plenty of trees at any rate.

Climb the face, move left onto the arete and back right onto the face to a lower-off.

The next route starts from the far (right) end of the terrace.

Nosutarujii - Nostalgia 5.9* 13m

The wide crack at the far end of the terrace (and just left of the top pitch of Nagareboshi Meguri). Not as pleasant as it looks. Take a rack.

Climb the crack to its end and finish slightly left at a lower-off.

The next three routes start from the trench in which Midori no Kire Me finishes.

Hotondo Byouki Crack - The Nearly Mad Crack 5.10a* 13m

The lefthand dirty wide crack. I think the righthand crack is the continuation of Midori no Kire Me.

Climb the dirty wide dogleg crack and bolted slab above to a lower-off. Not very nice.

Ansaraa 5.11b** 12m

Neat enough climbing up the left side of the arete.

Climb the slab easily till it steepens, then a couple of technical moves and a sharp pull lead to a lower-off.

Gojira no Maachi - The March of Godzilla 5.11b* 13m

Steep enough climbing up the right side of the arete.

Pull over the lower bulge, then climb steeply up and pull round to the left for the finishing moves of Ansaraa. Unsatisfying.

The next two routes start from a bay round the opposite side of the tower. You need to scramble up a bit, so be careful.

Ajia no Hoshi - Star of Asia 5.12a*** 23m

A good varied route.

Start in the shallow, left-curving corner. Climb this then traverse left to a ledge on the arete. Make a fierce pull back right onto the slab to gain a crack. Follow this till it ends, then climb up and right on slopers to a lower-off.

Shuuryouten de Aimashou - See you at the belay 5.11b*** 18m

Another good varied route.

Pull over the bulge on the right on good flakes, then climb up and left to a wide crack in the centre of the slab. Climb this to a lower-off.

Kaseijin - The Martian

A handful of cracking slab routes and a lot of lichen.

Approach as for Godzilla Rock, but continue up the path till it leads up a broad gully on the right. Follow this to its top. Daimos Slab is gorgeously obvious on the left. The mound it faces is the back of Godzilla Upper Tier. You can approach Hotondo Byouki Crack, Ansaraa and Gojira no Maachi from here.

Kaseijin

Chibi Maruko no Baasan - Little Maruko's Granny 5.8 30m

A poor route up the left side wall. Not as steep as it looks.

Pitch 1. 5.8 Pick the easiest line up the lower wall (follow the bolts, even) to a terrace and bolt belay (up and right).
Pitch 2. 5.8 Walk back down and left then step up into a big recess. Swing up and left on a wonder jam (Friends) then follow the easiest line to the top. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or make a long walk off to the right (facing out).

Hangyounin no Single Catch - The Fishman's Single Catch 5.10d* 30m

An excellent first pitch, worthwhile in its own right, and a poor second with one very hard move.

Pitch 1. 5.8 Climb trickily over mossy slabs up and right to the foot of the slabby corner. Follow this to a terrace and bolt belay (up and right). If you're the nervous type, like me, take a couple of big Friends for the corner.
Pitch 2. 5.10d Walk down and left then step up into a big recess. Use the right edge of this to make a scary clip (you can protect the clip with wires), then pull up and over with difficulty. A move up brings easier ground. Follow a rightwards-slanting line to the top. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or walk off to the right (facing out).

Ookami Otoko to Juujika - The Werewolf and the Crucifix 5.10a** 30m

A very good, sustained route.

Pitch 1. 5.10a Climb the corner/slab to the roof, then traverse left and make a funny move round into a short corner. Up this to a terrace and bolt belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb up to the belay bolts, then swing round the arete to the foot of a crack. Entertaining moves up this, with or without a mobile chockstone, are fun enough, but try to get on the right face as soon as possible for a lovely finish. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or walk off to the right (facing out).

Marvin 5.10b*** 26m

Pleasant slab climbing with a little spice - in contrast to its neighbours.

Step off the sharp flake, clip the first bolt of Daimos, then traverse left to the arete. Climb the slab just right of the arete to the terrace - sling on a knob and/or Friends. Make a high step onto the top slab to gain a flake, then climb more easily to the top.

Daimos 5.11c**** 12m

Good climbing up the centre of the lovely slab.

Step off the sharp flake and climb straight up the centre of the slab to a stopper move where the shallow crack gives out. You might want to make a step left to get off the dike at the top.

Phobos 5.10b*** 12m

Pleasant, over-bolted climbing up the right of the lovely slab. A very soft touch for the 10d it gets in Japanese guides.

Step off the sharp flake and climb the line of RCC bolts right of the centre of the slab to the terrace.

Uchuu Yuuei - Swimming in Space 5.8* 25m

A good first pitch, for which a set of Friends is required.

Pitch 1. 5.8 Step off the right of the sharp flake and climb the flake/slab to the big ledge. Bolt belay as for Daimos.
Pitch 2. 5.7 Climb the slab behind the belay to the overhang, then traverse left and pull up onto an easy angled finishing slab. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or walk off to the right (facing out).

Nurikabe - Wet Wall 5.8* 15m

A neat little thrutch up the wide crack right of Uchuu Yuuei.

Step off the right of the sharp flake as for Uchuu Yuuei, then move right into a recess and climb the wide crack in the slab to the big ledge. Traverse left to the lower-off of Daimos. Ab or lower off this, or finish up Uchuu Yuuei.

Kyoufu no Uchuujin - The Scary Alien 5.10a* 15m

A good line, but a bit too dirty for your liking.

Start behind the cave. Move up into the slabby corner and follow this to a terrace. Choose a tree and ab or lower off. Be careful not to knock any rocks down on yourself or second.

Senkou Hanabi Nakane Hotaka Special - Hotaka Nakane Sparkler Special 5.10a 25m

Hotaka Nakane would be a famous alpinist. Perhaps he has a thing about sparklers. Anyway, the first pitch is OK. The second might be missing its bolts. Which might not be a bad thing.

Pitch 1. 5.8 Step off the right of the sharp flake and climb the grassy corner/slab to a garden and tree belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the slab behind the belay, keeping to the left of the bolts (if they're in). Pick a tree and ab or lower off.

Nezumi Hanabi - Fire Cracker 5.10b 25m

Poor climbing up a scruffy slab.

Pitch 1. 5.10b Start at the right end of the vegetated ledge at twin bolts. Make tricky moves up and right to get established on the slab then climb more easily up and vaguely left to a garden and tree belay.
Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the slab behind the belay, keeping to the right of the bolts (if they're in). Pick a tree and ab or lower off.

Babylon no Yousei - The Fairy of Babylon 5.10d*** 18m

A committing start followed by intricate face/slab climbing and a dirty finish.

Start at the right edge of the big ledge at the top of Pitch 1 of Yoko Muki Roketto Hanabi. Step up onto the cutaway and move right to a scoop. Move up to a flake and use this to make technical moves to where the angle eases. Finish with care up a mossy slab. Ab or lower off the monster tree.

Yoko Muki Roketto Hanabi - Horizontal Rocket 5.7 85m

That's Rocket as in the firework. A long and tedious route, only half of which involves actual climbing.

Pitch 1. 5.7 Start slightly up the gully at the right end of the long low wall. Climb up to the toe of the slab and follow its right edge. Where it steepens, move left and pull onto the hanging garden. Choose a tree and belay.
Pitch 2. -- Wander left and wonder why. Tree belay as for Nezumi Hanabi.
Pitch 3. -- Keep going left to the bolt belay of Daimos.
Pitch 4. 5.7 As for Uchuu Yuuei, climb the slab behind the belay to the overhang, then traverse left and pull up onto an easy-angled finishing slab. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or walk off to the right (facing out).

Uchiage Hanabi - Roman Candle 5.10a** 25m

A good varied pitch, but getting a bit dirty.

Start up and right of Pitch 1 of Yoko Muki Rocket Hanabi. Step up and climb a groove through the overhang. Continue in an almost direct line to a bulge. Pass this on its right then climb a crack and groove to the top. Pick a tree and ab or lower off.

Tracy Island

The next decent sized crag up from Kaseijin. From the top of Kaseijin it is clearly visible 300m further up the hillside and slightly left of the line to the big crag on the valleytop. Either make a beeline for the crag from the top of Kaseijin, or, from the approach to Kaseijin, dodge left round a low broken wall then go up the hill to a short steep wall with an impressive arete. Dodge this on its left then go straight up to the next crag. This is Tracy Island. The only route to date starts up and right, where a gully is formed by a short cracked wall on the right, and a wooded ledge cuts in to the crag on the left. Nip in here, no offence, and you'll see an obvious flake running up the slab to a short, steep wall.

Thunderbird 1 5.10c** 20m

A good varied pitch. Take a set of Friends and a couple of wires around Rock 4.

Climb the flake and make a long reach right for a jug at the top of the wall. Use this to gain a good jam at the base of the bottomless crack on the left. Pull over and follow the flake to the next steepening. Use a handy little pocket to reach a good hold in a short crack (Rock 4ish wire) and pull right onto the slab. Up the left edge of the slab past a bolt to a break, then up the brushed top slab to a tree and lower-off.

Inseki - The Meteor

The granite blob on top of the ridge between Phoenix and Godzilla has been omitted from the last few Japanese guides. Much easier to find if you know where Godzilla and Kaseijin are. Home to four good crack routes and a couple of bizarre, recently bolted lines. On all the routes, the rock is a bit crunchy for the first couple of metres and the gear is excellent (provided you've got the right size).

Follow the Highway to Phoenix Rock. There is, according to the old topo, a 30m slab called Warming Up Slab just past Phoenix Rock on the right, and a path leading way up the gully from here to Inseki, passing a couple of other crags on the way. I couldn't find this, so: About 50m past Phoenix Rock on the right, an old wide forestry track breaks off up the slope. Follow this. It bends left then levels off and ends after about 200m. From just before its end, zig-zag up the slope at an overall right angle to the track to a small outcrop. From the top of this, intermittent red tape leads you up the slope to a gully with a slab on the right (Escalator, 3P, 5.8). Go straight up the gully till the rock on the right runs out. Continue up to the top of the rock on the left. From here, the tape starts again and leads quickly to the rock under the cracks of Melting Jam and Cleaning Windows.

Inseki

Melting Jam 5.10c*** 20m

A great line that gives a good varied pitch. Take a rack up to Friend 2.5.

Start on the east face where the path meets the rock below the obvious hand crack. Climb up to the narrowing crack, then climb it by steep moves till it gets too thin even for fingers. Crux moves gain a good lock then a jug, after which the angle eases. Lovely jamming leads to a short headwall and a couple of bold moves out left and up land you on a good ledge with a three-bolt belay. Ab off, or climb the flake in the arete behind the belay (10a) if you want to top out. There are also two shiny bolts in the filthy slab round to the right (not to mention the bizarre waste of bolts round the arete to the right of the route itself).

Cleaning Windows 5.9** 20m

A good thrutch, if there is such a thing, up the wide crack just left of Melting Jam. Take a rack of anything Friend 3.5 or bigger. 5.8 if you know what you're doing.

Climb the crack by a series up and down udges to a small ledge and tree. Climb a short corner to the anchor at the top of Melting Jam. Have a rest.

Outer Crack 5.10a** 22m

Another varied crack pitch. Take a rack with a couple of bigs.

Start at few metres left of Cleaning Windows where the terrace drops away. Climb a wide crack into a recess. Continue behind the tree to pull out into a good hand crack. Up this and over ledges to a tree at the top. Ab off.

Mini-books 5.9** 25m

And another varied crack pitch requiring a rack with a couple of bigs. The bottom is easier than it looks.

Start down and left of Outer Crack. Follow a wide slanting crack up and left to pull into a nearly chimney. Udge up this to sinking jams. Continue over ledges to the top. Ab off.

Number	Crag Name (Click to Get There)
1	Nagare Boshi Pitch 1
2	Kinseijin
3	Godzilla Lower Tier
4	Godzilla Upper Tier
5	Kaseijin
6	Tracy Island
7	Inseki

Rockfist	5.10b**	26m
A neat slab pitch, but the bottom few metres may require a brush. The top half stays clean.
Start 5m right of the fallen tree below a faint ledge. Mantel onto the ledge and climb direct to a double overlap past some deep pockets (bomber Friend 4). Pull over the first overlap, smear carefully to the second and mantel precariously over this. Continue directly up the slab, past a break, to finish at the lower-off of Prends ton Temps. A 50m rope will be just enough to get you down.

Prends ton Temps - Take your Time	5.10a***	27m
An excellent varied pitch, as long as it stays clean (I recleaned and climbed it in November 2009). The flake takes good Friends 1-2½.
Start at the roots of the big fallen tree, by a small flake. Climb up and right into the centre of the slab, then go direct to a big overlap. Pull over to a big flake on the left and layback this till it ends at another overlap. Step left and pull over using a marvellous crystal in a pocket, then climb direct on good, spaced holds to a lower-off. A 50m rope will be just enough to get you down.

Otoshiboshi - Fallen Star	5.10a**	15m
A neat slab pitch on perfect rock.
From near the right edge of the ledge of pine needles, step onto the big dike and follow the bolts as they curve up and left to a lower-off.

Ogawayama Chainsaw Daigyakusatsu - Ogawayama Chainsaw Massacre	5.10a*	15m
Not quite so good as its neighbour, but an interesting crux.
From the centre of the ledge of pine needles, step onto the big dike at a big hole. Move up and left to gain an improving flake (crux), mantel onto the jug this becomes, then slab easily to the lower-off.

Nagareboshi Meguri - Wishing on a Star	5.10c*	190m
A long and meandering route that involves quite a bit of walking. Still, good for a bit of sightseeing. Start at the slab just right of the highway and left of a tumbledown wall held up by a magnificent tree.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Climb the centre of the dirty, overlapping slab - easier and more pleasant than it looks. Pull into the woods at the top using a flake embedded in a dead tree. Belay on a tree of choice. Walk up and left 5m to a terrace below a crumbly face. Pitch 2. 5.10b Start on the right of the bulging lower face. Move up and pull out left into the centre of the face. Climb the slim slab above to a lovely picnic spot in the forest. Follow a path up and right for 30m to a slab. Pitch 3. 5.8 Climb the centre of the dirty but pleasant slab to a ledge. Pull through bulges on the right to another slab and climb this to the top. Walk up and left about 25m to a tiny face with a good crack and two bolts. Pitch 4. 5.8 Climb the tiny face. Rope hardly necessary. Rejoin the path and trudge up and left for 30m to an almost impressive face. Follow the base of this left to a bolt line in a sandy slab. Pitch 5. 5.10c Take care with rope drag on this pitch. Climb the slab to a couple of trees. Pull over onto the cleaner top slab and follow the bolts up this with an odd kink left just below the top. Belay on a good ledge. Pitch 6. 5.6 Climb steeply past a couple of bolts to easy ground. Follow a fault right behind a tree then climb an easy, crumbling face slightly leftwards to a trough. Belay here, then scramble up to the knob behind the belay and walk off into the hillside. Head left to the next clump of rocks. Pitch 7. 5.8 Climb the centre of the pleasant slab past a tree and overlap to a big terrace. This puts you at the extreme right edge of Godzilla Lower Tier. Pitch 8. 5.9 Climb the disjointed cracks left behind the belay to another terrace. This puts you at the right edge of Godzilla Upper Tier. Pitch 9. 5.8 Climb easy, broken slabs to a big ledge.
Descend by either following the path that the route intermittently uses (drop down and right from the top of the route, then follow a path down the gully keeping the rocks of the route first on your right, then on your left) or by dropping down and left to the col in front of Kaseijin and following the path down from there.

Midori no Kire Me - Green Gap	5.10a	35m
Partially dropped from the last two guides, and hardly surprising, really. I haven't done the first or last pitch. If you do it, try playing 'Spot the Clean Hold'.
Pitch 1. - 5.9? Where the terrace leads out from the hillside, pull up onto the dirty slabby rib on the left of the steep wall and follow it to the terrace below the Upper Tier. Pitch 2. - 5.7 Climb the crack and the face around it to land in a trench. Pitch 3. - 5.9? Climb the dirty crack and slab left of Ansaraa to a lower-off.

Akko Kante 2 - Akko Arete 2	5.12a**	14m
The easiest route on the steep face skirted on the way to the upper crag.
Start in the centre of the face, below the right edge of a ramp. Gain the ramp and gorilla left almost to the arete. Pull up and climb the arete in a good position to a lower-off.

Sunkissed	5.13b***	15m
Steep and fingery climbing up the wall right of Akko Kante 2.
Climb the ramp, as for Akko Kante 2, but halfway along, pull onto the ramp and climb direct to a flake. Kink right then left to get over this, then finish direct. Lower off.

Ouga - Yellow River	5.13a****	15m
Marginally easier but more satisfying climbing to the right of Sunkissed. It sounds like I've done these routes, doesn't it!
Start the ramp as for Akko Kante 2, but pull up onto the ramp immediately and climb direct by technical moves on baby sharpies for three bolts. Move left to the flake and finish as for Sunkissed.

Chabinba	5.13a**	13m
Strenuous climbing up the centre of the wall.
Start behind the big tree on the terrace (the Japanese guide recommends pre-clipping the first bolt from the tree - but you wouldn't do that, would you?). Climb direct (crux) to the second bolt, then step right and climb direct till level with a flake. The original route moves left to the flake, then up to finish. A variation goes up then left.

Mushoku no Natsu Yasumi - Summer on the Dole	5.12b***	13m
Steep, strenuous climbing on generally good holds. Said to be reminiscent of Yellow Crash.
Start a couple of metres right of Chabinba and climb almost directly to the top. Also said to be a soft touch for primates. Pass the peanuts, Mr. Shifter.

Senshuuraku	5.12c**	12m
A direct line up the steep wall immediately after the end of the fixed rope. Senshuuraku is the name of the last day of a 15-day sumo tournament.
Follow the bolts. Sustained.

Shinkocchou - True Colours	5.12a***	12m
Powerful moves up the intimidating wall at the right end of the fixed rope.
Pull over the initial bulge, then climb direct on halfway decent holds till things get dirty. Fortunately the holds get better. Finish direct.

Cossack Dance	5.11c	12m
A nice idea, but a dreadful route. Overbolted, dirty and loose.
Scramble over easy ground to the foot of a dank cleft. Climb this by a combination of bridging, back-and-footing and giving-up-and-pulling-on-bolts till it is possible to climb the right wall to a ledge and lower-off.

Himeshara	5.12b**	13m
A good steep face route. Himeshara is a kind of tree, which, to the best of my surfing ability, translates as Tall Stewartia. Maybe there's one of them round here somewhere. Plenty of trees at any rate.
Climb the face, move left onto the arete and back right onto the face to a lower-off.

Nosutarujii - Nostalgia	5.9*	13m
The wide crack at the far end of the terrace (and just left of the top pitch of Nagareboshi Meguri). Not as pleasant as it looks. Take a rack.
Climb the crack to its end and finish slightly left at a lower-off.

Ansaraa	5.11b**	12m
Neat enough climbing up the left side of the arete.
Climb the slab easily till it steepens, then a couple of technical moves and a sharp pull lead to a lower-off.

Gojira no Maachi - The March of Godzilla	5.11b*	13m
Steep enough climbing up the right side of the arete.
Pull over the lower bulge, then climb steeply up and pull round to the left for the finishing moves of Ansaraa. Unsatisfying.

Ajia no Hoshi - Star of Asia	5.12a***	23m
A good varied route.
Start in the shallow, left-curving corner. Climb this then traverse left to a ledge on the arete. Make a fierce pull back right onto the slab to gain a crack. Follow this till it ends, then climb up and right on slopers to a lower-off.

Shuuryouten de Aimashou - See you at the belay	5.11b***	18m
Another good varied route.
Pull over the bulge on the right on good flakes, then climb up and left to a wide crack in the centre of the slab. Climb this to a lower-off.

Chibi Maruko no Baasan - Little Maruko's Granny	5.8	30m
A poor route up the left side wall. Not as steep as it looks.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Pick the easiest line up the lower wall (follow the bolts, even) to a terrace and bolt belay (up and right). Pitch 2. 5.8 Walk back down and left then step up into a big recess. Swing up and left on a wonder jam (Friends) then follow the easiest line to the top. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or make a long walk off to the right (facing out).

Hangyounin no Single Catch - The Fishman's Single Catch	5.10d*	30m
An excellent first pitch, worthwhile in its own right, and a poor second with one very hard move.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Climb trickily over mossy slabs up and right to the foot of the slabby corner. Follow this to a terrace and bolt belay (up and right). If you're the nervous type, like me, take a couple of big Friends for the corner. Pitch 2. 5.10d Walk down and left then step up into a big recess. Use the right edge of this to make a scary clip (you can protect the clip with wires), then pull up and over with difficulty. A move up brings easier ground. Follow a rightwards-slanting line to the top. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or walk off to the right (facing out).

Marvin	5.10b***	26m
Pleasant slab climbing with a little spice - in contrast to its neighbours.
Step off the sharp flake, clip the first bolt of Daimos, then traverse left to the arete. Climb the slab just right of the arete to the terrace - sling on a knob and/or Friends. Make a high step onto the top slab to gain a flake, then climb more easily to the top.

Daimos	5.11c****	12m
Good climbing up the centre of the lovely slab.
Step off the sharp flake and climb straight up the centre of the slab to a stopper move where the shallow crack gives out. You might want to make a step left to get off the dike at the top.

Phobos	5.10b***	12m
Pleasant, over-bolted climbing up the right of the lovely slab. A very soft touch for the 10d it gets in Japanese guides.
Step off the sharp flake and climb the line of RCC bolts right of the centre of the slab to the terrace.

Uchuu Yuuei - Swimming in Space	5.8*	25m
A good first pitch, for which a set of Friends is required.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Step off the right of the sharp flake and climb the flake/slab to the big ledge. Bolt belay as for Daimos. Pitch 2. 5.7 Climb the slab behind the belay to the overhang, then traverse left and pull up onto an easy angled finishing slab. Ab off down Daimos Slab, or walk off to the right (facing out).

Nurikabe - Wet Wall	5.8*	15m
A neat little thrutch up the wide crack right of Uchuu Yuuei.
Step off the right of the sharp flake as for Uchuu Yuuei, then move right into a recess and climb the wide crack in the slab to the big ledge. Traverse left to the lower-off of Daimos. Ab or lower off this, or finish up Uchuu Yuuei.

Nezumi Hanabi - Fire Cracker	5.10b	25m
Poor climbing up a scruffy slab.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Start at the right end of the vegetated ledge at twin bolts. Make tricky moves up and right to get established on the slab then climb more easily up and vaguely left to a garden and tree belay. Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the slab behind the belay, keeping to the right of the bolts (if they're in). Pick a tree and ab or lower off.

Babylon no Yousei - The Fairy of Babylon	5.10d***	18m
A committing start followed by intricate face/slab climbing and a dirty finish.
Start at the right edge of the big ledge at the top of Pitch 1 of Yoko Muki Roketto Hanabi. Step up onto the cutaway and move right to a scoop. Move up to a flake and use this to make technical moves to where the angle eases. Finish with care up a mossy slab. Ab or lower off the monster tree.