Karasawa is the second prominent stream the Kimpu San Highway crosses on its way up. The crags are spread along its left bank or the slopes to its north. The Karasawa rocks themselves are numbered down starting from top left. I've also included the crags at the very top of stream. Well, I will do.

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)

1 Phoenix Iwa
2 Playland 84
3 XXX
4 XXX
5 XXX
6 XXX
7 Karasawa Ippou

Number Crag Name
(Click to Get There)

8 Karasawa Nihou
9 Karasawa Sanpou
10 Karasawa Yonhou
11 Karasawa Gohou
12 Tokeidai Ganryou
13 Karasawa Yonhou, Kabu Slab
14 XXX
K Kyuketsuki no Shiro

Phoenix Iwa - Phoenix Rock

The rock 2km up the Kimpu San Highway. In early 2001, somebody whacked a load of new bolts in - they're either painted brown or pre-rusted, not sure which, which made this a decent spot to bring beginners. These new routes were never reported and are listed below as New 1 - 5. With the ridiculous state of the lower-offs for Phoenix and at the top of the crag, there must be more bolts on this rock than on the rest of Ogawayama combined. Routes are described from left to right, down to up.

Follow the Kimpu San highway past the chain. After 2kmish you cross Karasawa, though you might not notice - look for a dam on the right. Just after this the road opens out into a clearing with Phoenix Rock on the right. An old forestry track disappears into the jungle on the opposite bank of the river (currently under repair).

Unknown 5.12b* 9m

The steep face left of Phoenix.

Climb the face on small holds with short term help from a decent undercut flake, then head up and right to a lower-off.

Phoenix 5.11b** 9m

The steep crack on the left side of the crag. A long-standing top-rope problem, now bolted, kind of.

Follow the crack to a lower-off. Crux midway.

New 1 5.8* 11m

The slabby rib right of Phoenix, gained from the left.

Swing out right from Phoenix to a steep pull onto the slab. Follow this just right of the edge to a lower-off.

New 2 5.7 13m

The central groove.

Climb the groove with a detour round the huge dead tree. Finish at the lower-off of Phoenix or continue to that of New 3.

New 3 5.8* 13m

The centre of the slab right of the groove. The best of the new bunch - unfortunately only the first bolt has its hanger.

Start at a short crack under a bulge. Climb the crack, then pull out right at a shrub. Swing out left immediately (well, you can hang about a bit if you want) using a good flake, then follow the slab to a lower-off on a small ledge on the right.

New 4 5.7 14m

The right rib.

Gain the rib however you like and follow it to the lower-off of New 3.

New 5 5.9 14m

The top corner.

Gain the corner however you like and follow it to a lower-off just below the top. Be sure to top out and check out the state of the anchors on top. Then use them.

Kurama Tengu 5.11b** 15m

Tengu is a red-faced goblin with a long nose, and Kurama isn't. A good steep finish to Phoenix.

Start from the top of Phoenix. Follow good holds leading right and up to a corner, then pull airily through the bulges on the right.

Grot 1 5.10d* 18m

The crack and face round to the right and at a slightly higher level has, like the vomit on the carpet after a memorable party, not been claimed. Take a lot of Friends.

Start below a cracked, tottering bulge in a corner. Pull up and move left round a bulge. A hard move over the next bulge gains a huge but crumbly jug and a bolt. Mantel to another crumbly jug (good Friend 2 ½ but iffy rock) and make a very precarious mantel on this to reach another bolt. A short sharp pull leads to an easy finishing slab and lower-off (good bolts but no tat).

Kyuketsuki no Shiro - The Vampire's Castle

The slightly wooded rock tower on the opposite bank of the river, about 200m down from Phoenix - the Stannington Ruffs of Ogawayama. Rarely visited and rightly so.

Follow the Kimpu San highway to Phoenix Rock. Cross the river to gain an old forestry track. Follow this back and down into the jungle, then cut up a slight stream to the rock. If all goes well, you'll get lost, give up and go somewhere else. Otherwise, you hit the rock at the toe of the right sidewall containing Mahou no Ranpu. Routes are described willy, as it were, nilly.

Mahou no Ranpu - The Magic Lamp 5.10c 15m

A good direct line, but the crack is filled with choss. Take a rack.

Climb the steep crack past a peg low down to a ledge and groove. Climb this and finish slightly left. Ab off.

Frankenstein no Gyakushuu - The Return of Frankenstein 5.10a 18m

An odd line, linking disjointed cracks a long way round to the left of Mahou no Ranpu (traverse a thin path left from the start of Mahou no Ranpu).

Climb the lefthand of two cracks till it peters out. Go up and right to a fork in the righthand crack. Follow the righthand branch to a lower-off.

Majou no Houki - The Witch's Broomstick 5.9 15m

The crumbly off-width crack above the terrace up and right of Mahou no Ranpu (when viewed from Phoenix Iwa, this is the back face - the huge wedged boulder right of Koumori Gaeshi is a good landmark).

Start from the terrace. Pull out left to the crack and follow it nastily to a lower-off. Yuk.

Blackjack 5.11b* 15m

The line of weaknesses just right of Majou no Houki, and the only even vaguely appealing route on the rock. Take a couple of small Friends.

Start just right of Majou no Houki. Pull strenuously up to a flake and follow this leftwards to a pull right onto easier but dirtier ground. Continue to a grotty lower-off.

Kaibutsu-kun no Sora - Goblin's Sky 5.11c 17m

A strenuous but filthy pitch up the steep face right again.

Start just right of the starting terrace of Majou no Houki. Balancy moves lead up and right to a dodgy bolt. Climb direct to an overhang, pull through and finish slightly left (crux) at a terminal lower-off just below the top.

Koumori Gaeshi - The Bats are Back 5.10b 20m

Filthy moves up the well disjointed cracks round and right.

Start 10m round and right of the starting terrace of Majou no Houki, about 5m left of the wedged boulder. Climb up to a dogleg crack and follow this to a terrace. Traverse left to a second crack and follow this rather dirtily to a tree at the top. Ab off.

Karasawa Upper Crags

Skirt the dam just below Phoenix Iwa on its left and follow the path up the stream bed. This is well marked with cairns, but cairns are cairns and this is a stream bed. At one point, the path jinks left into a separate fork of the stream - this is hard to spot with the growth of new conifers in the stream bed - bloody nature! After about a kilometre from the Highway, you should hit a conference of cairns. Look up and right and you should spot a signpost (yes, really!) to the Karasawa rocks on a tree on the bank. This marks the start of a good path up the hillside. Follow this up and up. This path eventually breaks out of the woods into a higher stream bed. If it does, you've gone too far.

Karasawa Yonhou, Kabu Slab - Karasawa Four, Lower Slab

The squat slab below Karasawa Yonhou is bigger than you think and has three good, hard slab routes.

Just before the point where the path in the stream bed path jinks left, a faint path breaks out right and up into the woods. This is hard to spot and harder to follow. Anyway, head up the woods past isolated jumbled low crags on the right to the first crag of substance. It's probably worth pulling out onto one of these crags occasionally to get your bearings. The slab is probably easier to find by trundling down from the upper crags, but that involves a lot of extra walking.

Waiter 5.11b** 13m

A good but short slab pitch up the subsidiary slab.

Start down and left of the main slab. Fingery moves lead out left and up to a good small hold. Easier moves lead to a tree. Lower off, or scramble off to the right.

Elite 5.11b** 35m

A good pitch up the left side of the main slab. If it weren't for the crux, this would be a superb 5.9. Take a rack.

Start up and right of Waiter. Traverse out left to a disappearing crack. Climb this past a couple of bolts, then make scary, scratchy moves where it fades to gain its continuation. Follow this up and right past trees to its end. Ab off a cluster of shrubs or scramble off and down left of the crag.

Psycho 5.11c* 35m

Hard moves breaking out left from Elite.

Follow Elite to the continuation crack. Pull out left and follow the bolted line up the steep slab to the top. Ab/scramble off.

Karasawa Ippou - Karasawa One

A big, squat crag, with a variety of rock and routes.

Just before the path opens out, cairns mark another path breaking off right below a couple of tall crags. Follow this across and up to a broad face with a baby pinnacle at its base. You have arrived. Allow 40 minutes + recovery time for the approach.

The Knife 5.10b** 40m

Pitch 2 has an excellent crack, but pitch 1 has some duff gear. Take a rack.

Pitch 1. 5.10b Start well round to the right of the baby pinnacle, where the path starts to lead up the gully. Climb up to a flake, then move left to a shallow crack. Follow this past a steep section (crux) to ledges and a bolt belay.
Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb up to the base of the impressive crack and follow it till it peters out. Move right to a ledge then climb direct over easy ground to belay.

Descend by abbing the route or climbing off leftwards to the top, then scrambling down the gully between Ippou and Nihou.

Nagare Boshi - Shooting Star 5.12b**** 20m

A great line that gets an extra star for exposure - it starts out there and goes further. Take a rack. Gain the start of the traverse by either scrambling up and round to the left, or climbing Uragiri Crack.

Traverse out (rope recommended) to a hanging belay at the base of the crack.
Pull into the gently overhanging crack and follow it all the way, past an absolute pig of a move to get from finger to hand, to a bolt belay. Ab/lower off.

Karasawa Ippou Nanseimen - Karasawa One, Southwest Face

Shuffle between the pinnacle and main face and scuffle up the slope round the back for all of a minute. The clean, straight handcrack of Wings introduces itself.

Chocolate Parfait 5.10b* 20m

Good, but rarely climbed. The top flake would be great for beginners if you didn't have to struggle to the overlap. Take a rack.

Start just right of the obvious crack of Wings. Climb up to the right end of the big overlap. Udge right into a recess, then reach right to gain the base of a good flake. Follow this pleasantly to the top. Ab off.

Wings 5.10a** 20m

A good climb that deserves more traffic. Take a rack.

Climb the crack all the way to its end. Go right then left over easier-angled ground to the top. Ab off.

Karasawa Nihou - Karasawa Two

A tall, slender buttress with a couple of routes.

As for Karasawa Ippou, then follow a vaguer path across right under Ippou and Nihou to the narrow gully between Nihou and Sanpou. The base of this gully is not a good place to be if anyone is descending it.

Karasawa Nihou Original Route 5.8* 120m

A pleasant enough, isolated route, but the climbing itself isn't up to much. Take a rack. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be run together.

Pitch 1. 5.8 Pull up on flakes, then swing round left below the slab to a flake/ramp leading left. Follow this to a good flake on the right, then pull right onto the slab. Cross the slab diagonally right to a tree-filled crack. Up this to a good small ledge and bolt belay.
Pitch 2. 5.7 Climb the righthand of the two cracks above the belay to a step left to a big ledge.
Pitch 3. 5.7 Climb easily up to a wall. Pull up and dodge right to easy ground. Up this carefully to a ledge on the left.
Pitch 4. 5.8 Climb easily up to a wall, then go up and right to the base of a corner. Climb this awkwardly to the top. Belay on a huge bollard.

Descend by abbing 25m, from a tree tucked down and right of the finish, to the gully between Nihou and Sanpou. Follow the gully all the way down, passing two rock steps that may need to be abbed.

Karasawa Nihou Direct Route 5.10a** 120m

Slightly better than the Original. Take a rack. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be run together.

Pitch 1. 5.10a Pull up on flakes to the base of the slab. Climb the centre of the slab past a disconcertingly drooping ring bolt to a good small ledge and bolt belay (as for the Original Route).
Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the lefthand of the two cracks above the belay to a big ledge.
Pitch 3. 5.9 Climb the straight crack on the left ("Senhiki Crack" - Ruler Crack) to easy ground. Continue easily to a good ledge. (Originally, Pitch 3 was the same as the Original Route.)
Pitch 4. 5.10a Scramble up to and climb the impressive crack in the left of the headwall. Belay on a huge bollard over the back.

Descend as for the Original Route.

Karasawa Sanpou, Nanseimen - Karasawa Three, Southwest Face

The big face just across the gully right of Karasawa Nihou. Not really worth the walk, but at least you'll have it to yourself!.

INCOMPLETE

Karasawa Sanpou, Tokeidai no Ganryou - Karasawa Three, Clocktower Ridge

The triangular slab under Karasawa Sanpou. Worth a visit, especially if you want to get away from the crowds. The main slab is excellent, but the bolts are few and crap.

As for Karasawa Ippou, but about 200m after you leave the main stream bed, a cairn marks a path cutting right into the woods (look for a band of tape round a tree). Follow this across and then up to the slab - there's no path, but it's so close you can't miss it.

Hachigatsu Route - August Route 5.10a* 45m

A nice start up the slab, but the route gives up after the first pitch. A set of Friends should do you.

Pitch 1. 5.10a Start near the left edge of the slab, behind a big conifer and under a prominent tree on a ledge at 20m. Climb direct to the tree, crux between the bolts.
Pitch 2. 5.6 Climb easily up and right to broken ground. Continue easily up and left to belay below a prominent short crack.
Pitch 3. 5.7 Climb the crack, then traverse right and climb an easy off-width (apparently there is such a thing). Belay below the summit tower.

If you're careful, you can descend by abbing the route. Otherwise, scramble off left of the summit tower and trundle down the slope left of the slab.

Tropical Direct 5.10a* 20m

A good enough slab climb that would be better with real bolts, a brush-up and a bit more traffic.

Start right of centre of the slab, under a prominent overlap low down. Climb through the overlap at a bolt and continue in the same line to the big ledge on September Route. Keep going, again in the same line to a lower-off. Scary.

Meehaa Traverse 5.10c* 25m

Another good, neglected climb with crap bolts.

Climb Tropical Direct to its second bolt, then traverse neatly left past one thin move to Hachigatsu Route. Follow this to the stance at the top of Pitch 1. Ab off.

Kugatsu Route - September Route 5.10a 120m

A devious counter to Hachigatsu Route. Take a rack, and be sure to have some bigs. Looking at the crag with the topo at hand, I couldn't work the first two pitches out.

Pitch 1. 5.7 Start up and right of the main slab, at a fault leading left into Tropical Direct. Follow the fault and continue in the same line to a bolt belay on a good ledge.
Pitch 2. 5.8 Take care with rope drag on this pitch. Climb the slab behind the belay to a crack. Up this to broken ground, then traverse a long way left, under the stance at the top of pitch 2 of Hachigatsu Route to belay below an ominous off-width.
Pitch 3. 5.10a Climb the crack then move right to finish up Hachigatsu Route.

Descend as for Hachigatsu Route.

Kogara - Willow Tit 5.9* 15m

A worthwhile climb up the juggy crack right again. Take a rack with at least one big Friend. Gear is good but can be hard to place.

Start just in from the right arete under a white bulge. Pull up on jugs to a crack slanting left - good Friends. Follow this to a vertical crack - slings on spikes on the left - and finish up this at a spiky bush. Belay on trees over the back and ab off down the gully on the right.

Unknown	5.12b*	9m
The steep face left of Phoenix.
Climb the face on small holds with short term help from a decent undercut flake, then head up and right to a lower-off.

Phoenix	5.11b**	9m
The steep crack on the left side of the crag. A long-standing top-rope problem, now bolted, kind of.
Follow the crack to a lower-off. Crux midway.

New 1	5.8*	11m
The slabby rib right of Phoenix, gained from the left.
Swing out right from Phoenix to a steep pull onto the slab. Follow this just right of the edge to a lower-off.

New 2	5.7	13m
The central groove.
Climb the groove with a detour round the huge dead tree. Finish at the lower-off of Phoenix or continue to that of New 3.

New 3	5.8*	13m
The centre of the slab right of the groove. The best of the new bunch - unfortunately only the first bolt has its hanger.
Start at a short crack under a bulge. Climb the crack, then pull out right at a shrub. Swing out left immediately (well, you can hang about a bit if you want) using a good flake, then follow the slab to a lower-off on a small ledge on the right.

New 4	5.7	14m
The right rib.
Gain the rib however you like and follow it to the lower-off of New 3.

New 5	5.9	14m
The top corner.
Gain the corner however you like and follow it to a lower-off just below the top. Be sure to top out and check out the state of the anchors on top. Then use them.

Kurama Tengu	5.11b**	15m
Tengu is a red-faced goblin with a long nose, and Kurama isn't. A good steep finish to Phoenix.
Start from the top of Phoenix. Follow good holds leading right and up to a corner, then pull airily through the bulges on the right.

Grot 1	5.10d*	18m
The crack and face round to the right and at a slightly higher level has, like the vomit on the carpet after a memorable party, not been claimed. Take a lot of Friends.
Start below a cracked, tottering bulge in a corner. Pull up and move left round a bulge. A hard move over the next bulge gains a huge but crumbly jug and a bolt. Mantel to another crumbly jug (good Friend 2 ½ but iffy rock) and make a very precarious mantel on this to reach another bolt. A short sharp pull leads to an easy finishing slab and lower-off (good bolts but no tat).

Mahou no Ranpu - The Magic Lamp	5.10c	15m
A good direct line, but the crack is filled with choss. Take a rack.
Climb the steep crack past a peg low down to a ledge and groove. Climb this and finish slightly left. Ab off.

Frankenstein no Gyakushuu - The Return of Frankenstein	5.10a	18m
An odd line, linking disjointed cracks a long way round to the left of Mahou no Ranpu (traverse a thin path left from the start of Mahou no Ranpu).
Climb the lefthand of two cracks till it peters out. Go up and right to a fork in the righthand crack. Follow the righthand branch to a lower-off.

Blackjack	5.11b*	15m
The line of weaknesses just right of Majou no Houki, and the only even vaguely appealing route on the rock. Take a couple of small Friends.
Start just right of Majou no Houki. Pull strenuously up to a flake and follow this leftwards to a pull right onto easier but dirtier ground. Continue to a grotty lower-off.

Kaibutsu-kun no Sora - Goblin's Sky	5.11c	17m
A strenuous but filthy pitch up the steep face right again.
Start just right of the starting terrace of Majou no Houki. Balancy moves lead up and right to a dodgy bolt. Climb direct to an overhang, pull through and finish slightly left (crux) at a terminal lower-off just below the top.

Koumori Gaeshi - The Bats are Back	5.10b	20m
Filthy moves up the well disjointed cracks round and right.
Start 10m round and right of the starting terrace of Majou no Houki, about 5m left of the wedged boulder. Climb up to a dogleg crack and follow this to a terrace. Traverse left to a second crack and follow this rather dirtily to a tree at the top. Ab off.

Waiter	5.11b**	13m
A good but short slab pitch up the subsidiary slab.
Start down and left of the main slab. Fingery moves lead out left and up to a good small hold. Easier moves lead to a tree. Lower off, or scramble off to the right.

Elite	5.11b**	35m
A good pitch up the left side of the main slab. If it weren't for the crux, this would be a superb 5.9. Take a rack.
Start up and right of Waiter. Traverse out left to a disappearing crack. Climb this past a couple of bolts, then make scary, scratchy moves where it fades to gain its continuation. Follow this up and right past trees to its end. Ab off a cluster of shrubs or scramble off and down left of the crag.

Psycho	5.11c*	35m
Hard moves breaking out left from Elite.
Follow Elite to the continuation crack. Pull out left and follow the bolted line up the steep slab to the top. Ab/scramble off.

The Knife	5.10b**	40m
Pitch 2 has an excellent crack, but pitch 1 has some duff gear. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Start well round to the right of the baby pinnacle, where the path starts to lead up the gully. Climb up to a flake, then move left to a shallow crack. Follow this past a steep section (crux) to ledges and a bolt belay. Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb up to the base of the impressive crack and follow it till it peters out. Move right to a ledge then climb direct over easy ground to belay.
Descend by abbing the route or climbing off leftwards to the top, then scrambling down the gully between Ippou and Nihou.

Nagare Boshi - Shooting Star	5.12b****	20m
A great line that gets an extra star for exposure - it starts out there and goes further. Take a rack. Gain the start of the traverse by either scrambling up and round to the left, or climbing Uragiri Crack.
Traverse out (rope recommended) to a hanging belay at the base of the crack. Pull into the gently overhanging crack and follow it all the way, past an absolute pig of a move to get from finger to hand, to a bolt belay. Ab/lower off.

Chocolate Parfait	5.10b*	20m
Good, but rarely climbed. The top flake would be great for beginners if you didn't have to struggle to the overlap. Take a rack.
Start just right of the obvious crack of Wings. Climb up to the right end of the big overlap. Udge right into a recess, then reach right to gain the base of a good flake. Follow this pleasantly to the top. Ab off.

Wings	5.10a**	20m
A good climb that deserves more traffic. Take a rack.
Climb the crack all the way to its end. Go right then left over easier-angled ground to the top. Ab off.

Karasawa Nihou Original Route	5.8*	120m
A pleasant enough, isolated route, but the climbing itself isn't up to much. Take a rack. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be run together.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Pull up on flakes, then swing round left below the slab to a flake/ramp leading left. Follow this to a good flake on the right, then pull right onto the slab. Cross the slab diagonally right to a tree-filled crack. Up this to a good small ledge and bolt belay. Pitch 2. 5.7 Climb the righthand of the two cracks above the belay to a step left to a big ledge. Pitch 3. 5.7 Climb easily up to a wall. Pull up and dodge right to easy ground. Up this carefully to a ledge on the left. Pitch 4. 5.8 Climb easily up to a wall, then go up and right to the base of a corner. Climb this awkwardly to the top. Belay on a huge bollard.
Descend by abbing 25m, from a tree tucked down and right of the finish, to the gully between Nihou and Sanpou. Follow the gully all the way down, passing two rock steps that may need to be abbed.

Karasawa Nihou Direct Route	5.10a**	120m
Slightly better than the Original. Take a rack. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be run together.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Pull up on flakes to the base of the slab. Climb the centre of the slab past a disconcertingly drooping ring bolt to a good small ledge and bolt belay (as for the Original Route). Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the lefthand of the two cracks above the belay to a big ledge. Pitch 3. 5.9 Climb the straight crack on the left ("Senhiki Crack" - Ruler Crack) to easy ground. Continue easily to a good ledge. (Originally, Pitch 3 was the same as the Original Route.) Pitch 4. 5.10a Scramble up to and climb the impressive crack in the left of the headwall. Belay on a huge bollard over the back.
Descend as for the Original Route.

Hachigatsu Route - August Route	5.10a*	45m
A nice start up the slab, but the route gives up after the first pitch. A set of Friends should do you.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Start near the left edge of the slab, behind a big conifer and under a prominent tree on a ledge at 20m. Climb direct to the tree, crux between the bolts. Pitch 2. 5.6 Climb easily up and right to broken ground. Continue easily up and left to belay below a prominent short crack. Pitch 3. 5.7 Climb the crack, then traverse right and climb an easy off-width (apparently there is such a thing). Belay below the summit tower.
If you're careful, you can descend by abbing the route. Otherwise, scramble off left of the summit tower and trundle down the slope left of the slab.

Tropical Direct	5.10a*	20m
A good enough slab climb that would be better with real bolts, a brush-up and a bit more traffic.
Start right of centre of the slab, under a prominent overlap low down. Climb through the overlap at a bolt and continue in the same line to the big ledge on September Route. Keep going, again in the same line to a lower-off. Scary.

Meehaa Traverse	5.10c*	25m
Another good, neglected climb with crap bolts.
Climb Tropical Direct to its second bolt, then traverse neatly left past one thin move to Hachigatsu Route. Follow this to the stance at the top of Pitch 1. Ab off.

Kugatsu Route - September Route	5.10a	120m
A devious counter to Hachigatsu Route. Take a rack, and be sure to have some bigs. Looking at the crag with the topo at hand, I couldn't work the first two pitches out.
Pitch 1. 5.7 Start up and right of the main slab, at a fault leading left into Tropical Direct. Follow the fault and continue in the same line to a bolt belay on a good ledge. Pitch 2. 5.8 Take care with rope drag on this pitch. Climb the slab behind the belay to a crack. Up this to broken ground, then traverse a long way left, under the stance at the top of pitch 2 of Hachigatsu Route to belay below an ominous off-width. Pitch 3. 5.10a Climb the crack then move right to finish up Hachigatsu Route.
Descend as for Hachigatsu Route.

Kogara - Willow Tit	5.9*	15m
A worthwhile climb up the juggy crack right again. Take a rack with at least one big Friend. Gear is good but can be hard to place.
Start just in from the right arete under a white bulge. Pull up on jugs to a crack slanting left - good Friends. Follow this to a vertical crack - slings on spikes on the left - and finish up this at a spiky bush. Belay on trees over the back and ab off down the gully on the right.