Basu Toire Tsuki - With Bath and Toilet	5.10c**	12m
A stiff little number up the right side of the wall that forms a second tier to the Black and White slab. Large Friend advised for the start. (This is marked in Japanese guides as a top-rope problem, but is now a reasonable lead.)
Start below a steep crack. Use this to pull up and gain a standing position on a dike. Thin moves off this and a roly-poly mantel lead to a lower-off on the left.

Scotch	5.11a***	9m
A tidy little frightener with some very neat moves - not bad for such a short route.
Start below the white streaks and pockets left of Basu Toire Tsuki. Clip, pull up, step up, clip, pull up, pull up, gibber, reach, praise the Lord, mantel. Lower off, or climb the never-climbed top pitch up the crack at the back (5.8).

Ringside Area

Sliding Kick	5.10b**	15m
A fun route, despite the dodgy gear. Take some medium/large runners for the overhang.
Start at a low-angled slab below a beak in an overhang, about 30m up and right of Black and White Slab. Climb the slab easily using a flake to the overhang. Arrange gear and make a funky move onto the beak. The crux pull left off this leads to a pleasant finishing slab. Ab off a tree.

Gong	5.9**	15m
A very pleasant slab climb. Low in the grade.
Start at a low-angled slab about 15m right of Sliding Kick. Climb the slab easily to ledge and tree. Pull up steeply onto the nicenicenice top slab and follow this to a tree. Ab off.

Nani mo Iu Koto wa Nai - Nothing to Say	5.10a*	9m
The baby slab that pops out of the hillside just for a second. Nice, but way too short.
Climb the bolted line (all of two bolts) to a tree. No lower-off. If you lower off or set up a top rope, set the rope high on the tree to avoid knocking loose stuff down onto yourself or your second. An almost pointless variation, Nani mo Hanasu Koto wa Nai - Nothing to Tell, climbs a metre right of the bolts (but reaches in to clip them) at the same grade.

Haru no Modori Yuki Area

Well, I had to come up with a name for the jumble of slabs up and left of the Black and White slab.

Follow Hachiman Zawa just past Tom no Hirune, then follow a small path up and right from the main stream till it is possible to cut into the hillside proper. A marked path leads to the base of the long slab of Haru no Modori Yuki. Another small path breaks out right before you reach Haru no Modori Yuki. This leads to the Ounen no Ran slab.

Ounen no Ran Slab

Decent slab routes on good rock, usually climbed by people foiled by the crowds on Black and White, but worth a visit for their own sake. The routes are described from left to right - for the three routes on the left, scramble up into the arms of a big sexy cedar.

Bista no Natsu Yasumi - Bista's Summer Holiday	5.9**	25m
The lefthand line - low in the grade and very pleasant.
Start by stepping left across the approach gully onto a rib. Move out left again then piece together the shiny bolts to a lower-off next to a tree.

Ounen no Ran - An Old-time Mess	5.10b**	20m
Pleasant slab-climbing, but with a bit of bite. The mantel used to be a bit of a head crux, but the old bolt was replaced at a lower point than the original, making it possible to clip before manteling. Spoilsports.
Start in the approach gully. Climb a short corner (possible Friends) then step out left to a flake. Make a long reach to palm a break, mantel, then make crux thin slab moves to where the angle eases. Finish direct up the gently easing slab. Ab/lower off as for Bista.

Hashire Merosu - Run, Melos!	5.10a**	20m
Similar to Ounen no Ran in character, though a fraction easier. The top crack can be sandy after rain.
Start as for Ounen no Ran, but after 3m or so step right onto good holds. From the top of these smear scarily diagonally right and mantel a dike to the base of a crack. Climb this (dodgy Friend 2.5 - 3) to a lower-off.

Kanzen na Ran - A Complete Mess	5.10b***	20m
The next line right has a nasty little traverse for those not versed in the Ogawayama smear.
Start 5m right of Ounen no Ran. Climb up to a small overhang (Friends). Pull over on good holds, move up slightly, clip a joke bolt (for some reason, this wasn't replaced when the other routes on this slab were re-equipped - anyway, semi-good small Friends 1m down), then make an improbable traverse left to join Hashire Merosu at the base of the crack. Finish up this.

The Haru no Modori Yuki Slab

Haru no Modori Yuki - Spring Snow	5.7***	80m
A long, easy slab route. Many variations are possible. Take a set of Friends for the here and there of it all - there aren't many bolts after the first pitch.
Pitch 1. 5.6 Start at the toe of the slab. Pull up onto the slab proper from the right, then climb pleasantly up its centre till level with a bolt belay in the gully on the right. Traverse right and belay (carefully, of course) in the gully. Pitch 2. 5.6 Move back onto the slab. Climb leftwards to the overlap and pull over (keep right of the small trees) at a bolt. Climb up and left across a fragile flake to belay at a lovely tree on a good ledge. Pitch 3. 5.6 Pull onto the slab behind the tree. Climb up and slightly left to a big ledge below a corner - a variety of lines exists, but a variety of protection does not. Just remember you're heading for the corner above a small pine. Belay on trees below and right of the corner - take your pick. Pitch 4. 5.7 Climb the neat corner to the top (crux of the route if you do it) or dodge it on the left to finish over blocky bulges (5.5).
Either ab the route, or scramble right to the Kamoshika Hiking Course and trundle down this. Cut in past Ringside Area to return to the Sagan Slab area, or follow the path back to the campsite.

Oni no Kakuran - The Devil's Sunstroke	5.10b	20m
An unpleasant start leads to an easy slab. Take a rack.
Start up and right of Haru no Modori Yuki and right of the gully at a flake crack overshadowed by trees. Climb the flake, thrutch the bulge, wrestle the tree and hug the slab. Finish at a ledge and lower-off a tree (or climb Souzura Matsuri).

Kanrei Zensen - Cold Front	5.11b*	10m
A bouldery start and a stroll.
Start from the belay at the top of pitch one of Haru no Modori Yuki. Drop down and make hard moves into a groovy bit. Move up and right (take care with the flake - I've seen stronger ones made by Cadbury's) to a faint ledge and lower-off (or climb Souzura Matsuri).

Souzura Matsuri - Souzura Festival	5.10b*	15m
The slab and crack high and right on the crag. A good position, but not such a good route. Take Friends 1.5 - 2.5 for the crack.
Start from the belay at the top of Kanrei Zensen. Climb up and rightwards to a ledge and crack. Climb the crack to a lower-off at the top.

Koi wa Oatsuku - Love Should Be Hot	5.10c**	16m
Nice climbing with a couple of steep moves. The best route up here.
Climb the steep bolted line behind the belay to a slab. Continue to a lower-off.

Daruma-san ga Koronda - Darma Fell Down	5.10a*	17m
A scratchy route for slab-tickers like me.
Start by scrambling very daintily about 15m up the gully from the belay at the top of pitch one of Haru no Modori Yuki. Belay at a tree in the gully (above the fallen one) and be careful not to kick anything down. Step onto the slab on the left and pad up in a curving line to a big thick tree and lower-off (no hardware).

Suzume no Namida - Chickenfeed	5.10b*	15m
Another scratchy slab route, but better than its partner. Literally, the route name is "The Tears of a Sparrow".
Start just up from Daruma-san ga Koronda. Pad direct then move up and left to finish up Daruma-san ga Koronda. The crux is getting stood above the second bolt.

Lolita Junko	5.12a***	10m
Fingery moves up the face that thinks it's a slab 15m up and left of Haru no Modori Yuki.
Climb an easy, low-angled slab to the foot of the main slab. Pull up into its centre, then step right and weave a line up to a lower-off.

Ringetsu Izuru - XXX	5.13b**	10m
A desperate variation finish to Lolita Junko. Rarely climbed.
Climb Lolita Junko till established on the main slab, then climb direct to the lower-off.

Yume no Hamusuteeki - The Hamsteak of my Dreams	5.9*	10m
The cleaned line up the stepped face 10m up and left of Lolita Junko.
Heave somewhat tediously between over dirty ledges to the slab proper. A couple of neat moves just about make it worth it. Lower off slings in trees.

Blue Island	5.11a*	10m
The short, isolated slab 30m up and left again.
Start on the left at a weakness. But not too far left. Pull up then move right into the centre of the slab on a thin dike. Climb direct to the top and ab off a tree. May 2007 and hanger number two is AWOL.

Modoki Iwa - Lookslikea Rock

Various Positions	5.11c***	15m
A tidy little gem up the wide, shallow crack and slab on the right of the crag. The top can be sandy after rain. Not a good route to top-rope.
Climb the shallow crack by thin moves. At its top make a slippery step right under the third bolt, then climb direct on neat pockets to a dike where the angle eases. Smear into the hillside and ab off a tree well back from the edge. Do not pull your rope down if there is anyone near the base of the route.

Nanpuu - South Wind	5.10c**	16m
A diagonal line centered on the slanting fault that never really becomes anything distinct left of Various Positions. 10a in Japanese guides.
Start just left of Various Positions. Climb up into a scoop. Smear up and left out of this, possibly using a faint dike on the right, to gain rounded flakes. Pull onto a ledge, admire the distance from the last bolt, then jibber on jugs to a bolt in the top slab. It is possible to protect this final clip with a sling or Friend 1ish behind a flake. Finish at a small but sturdy tree. If required, back this up with the bigger tree behind it.

Puu-san - Mr Pooh	5.10a***	15m
Pleasant climbing up the centre of the slab. Take Friends 1ish and 4ish
Pull up to the crusty knob, fnarr, as for Nankaikisen, but where that route traverses off to the left, pull into a short crack (good gear). From the end of this, use a rounded flake to pull out left then go up to a junction with Nanpuu at the ledge. Finish up this.

Nankaikisen - South Circular	5.10c*	35m
A long climb for such a small crag. I couldn't work out the first pitch, so I've described it the way I did it.
Pitch 1. 5.10c Start as for Puu-san, but after the first bolt traverse the dike left to Shioda Bridal Route. Pull up onto the dike as for this, then traverse left to a tree belay. A nasty pitch to follow. Pitch 2. 5.10b Pull up right of the belay tree and follow the all-too-short top slab to a tree at the top of the crag. Ab off.

Shioda Bridal Route	5.10c**	18m
A steeper, direct line up the left of the crag.
Start where the path drops down steeply to the lower crags. Pull over an undercut start to a crack (good wires). Reach up to a huge jug for the first bolt. Pull up using holds on the right, then make a tricky move up and left to better holds leading right to the ledge on Nanpuu. Finish up this.

Touch	5.8	10m
A dirty kind of crackline way round to the left. I couldn't find it, but I didn't look very hard. It might be the one that leads up to the belay on Nankaikisen - I noticed some sawn-off stumps in that. If it is, don't bother.
Start way round left and up of Shioda Bridal Route. Climb direct along a series of cracks and flakes to a lower-off. Maybe.

Lurking down the slope is the rather uninspiring Modoki Iwa II - extremely rarely visited and even less often climbed on.

No Side	5.10a	18m
Somewhere under the moss is an almost attractive slab.
Start left of a flake and under a hang. Climb up to the hang then dodge it on the left and continue in a fairly direct line to a tree at the top.

Try	5.8	20m
The short crack right of No Side.
Climb the crack till it ends. Move up, then traverse left into and finish up No Side.

Amax Rocks

Balance of Kyakuryoku - Fancy Footwork	5.10c*	16m
The bolted line on the slab visible from the hiking course. Well, when I say 'line'...
Pull up the steep lower wall (right of the bolt) and climb the slab boldly up and left to the third clip. Smear up to a jug and finish direct at a couple of small trees.

Amax Rock itself is best gained by scrambling down the gully below Balance of Kyakuryoku or the gully the other side of the promontory. Either way, the ground is unstable and it's best to go down one at a time or in a tight group. At the bottom of the gully go up and left round a rib and scramble up a low-angled slab to where the rock steepens. The nervous might want to belay from the gully.
If you don't fancy the journey back up the gully, you can troll down the hillside to Hachimanzawa. There are occasional pink and red ribbons on the trees to mark the way, but basically head down and left and mind your step when you drop out of the forest and into the stream bed.

Amax Route	5.11b*	13m
The short, bolted line on the pleasant dark face left of the cut-away. Harder than it looks, but still worth a look.
Pull up onto the face and climb up and right to a nasty second clip. Harder moves left and up lead to a couple of bolts with grotty tat and no krab.

Cybernetics	5.10c**	30m
The righthand line manages to find a bit more rock. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Start as for Amax Route. Climb the crumbly corner then the right edge of the face in a slanting line past intermittent cracks to a bolt belay. Pitch 2. 5.10c Continue in the same vein to a tree at the top.

There is a bolted line on the leaning, overlapping wall under Cybernetics. It is unreported and looks strenuous with some dodgy rock. Feel free.

The Hachiman Iwa Area

Usunoroman	5.11a**	10m
A good long route that gets you away from it all. Take a rack and expect to make a day of it.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Start at the base of a slab resting against the main crag. Climb awkwardly to a nasty move to reach a break on the right. Pull up then make a bold layback to gain a terrace. You can scramble to this terrace from the left (facing in). Pitch 2. 5.11a Fall across the gap behind the belay to gain and follow a line of discontinuous flakes to a slab. Climb this direct to a terrace and walk up and left to belay at the base of a crack. Pitch 3. 5.10a Climb the crack and corner above ("Itou Corner") to belay at a tree. Pitch 4. 5.10a Traverse left to a short crack. Climb this and its slanting continuation ("Akatsuka Crack") to the left end of a dike. Traverse right to its end then go up to a bolt belay at the right end of another dike. Pitch 5. 5.7    Traverse left to the end of the dike. Pitch 6. 5.10a Climb the slab to a kind of depression. Step left and go easily to the top.
To descend: Ab 20m to the stance at the top of Pitch 5; Ab 40m to the terrace level with the stance at the top of Pitch 2 - it is possible to walk off to the left (facing in) from here, to join a path skirting the crag; Ab 40m to the path at the base of the main crag level with the stance at the top of Pitch 1; Walk down to the base of the route.

Gorilla Iwa - Gorilla Rock

Tomahawk	5.10d**	35m
A good but rarely climbed crack that just keeps getting easier. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.10d Start at the base of the obvious left-slanting flake/crack. Follow this till it ends at a belay below a small hang. Pitch 2. 5.10b Step down and right, then go up to the right edge of an overlap. Pull right into a crack and follow this to another overlap. Pull over and traverse left to belay at the base of a chimney. Pitch 3. ----- Climb the chimney to the top. Scramble off, then trundle back down the gully to the base.

First Dream	5.11c**	30m
A steep, impressive line, but too far to walk for Joe Normalclimber.
Start further up the gully from Tomahawk below an impressive overlapped face. Climb right to a tricky mantel, then left to the right edge of an overlap. Pull over (crux), then climb direct past two more overlaps to the top.

Ootaki Migi Ganpeki - Big Waterfall, Right Face

Shame on You!	5.10b*	40m
The corner right of the fall.
Pitch 1. 5.10b Start left of an easy crack just right of the fall. Climb the slab, then loop left and back right to a bolt belay at the foot of the corner. The crack goes at 5.6. Pitch 2. 5.10b Climb the corner, crux midway. Ab off.

Broadway	5.11b**	20m
Good steep handjamming.
Start at a crack a few metres right of Shame on You! Jam neatly to the end of the crack, then make technical moves to gain a second crack. Jam this to a belay at its end. Ab/lower off.

Tomokazu Route	5.8*	15m
The thumping flake right again.
Climb the big flake to a belay at its end. Ab/lower off.

Sayonara Momoe-chan Route - Goodbye Momoe	5.9**	35m
A good route that requires a variety of crack techniques and possibly a headtorch.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Start at the crack right of Tomokazu Route. Follow this till it forks. Take the left fork (crux) to belay as for Tomokazu Route. Pitch 2. 5.8 Climb the slab left of the continuation crack for a few metres, then traverse back into and behind it. Keep digging till you emerge below a corner on the far side. Climb this to a tree belay on a good ledge. Pitch 3. 5.7 Move out left to a crack. Climb this and layback the big flake above to the top. Ab off via the top of Kazehana Route.

Kazehana Route	5.8**	30m
The right fork of the crack of pitch 1 of Sayonara Momoe-chan Route involves more speleologistics.
Climb the crack through various incarnations to a tree belay. Remember it's 30m to the ground.

Mumei Ganpou - Nameless Ridge

The unclimbed impressive steep slab left of Dai Nippon Kokumin Route is a good landmark, and the hawk-eyed should be able to spot the tat on the tree at the top of Athletics Club.

Shoujikimura no Yasai Keeki - Honest John's Vegetable Cake	5.10b*	30m
A chossy beginning, but some neat moves up top. Take a rack.
Start about 25m up and right of Athletics Club at a vague groove below overlaps. Climb the groove, then go up and left to a hand crack. Follow this to the first overlap. Pull over and follow the continuation crack (crux) to the next overlap, then climb direct.

Athletics Club	5.11d*	40m
A top-rope problem up a line of discontinuous cracks right of the big dirty corner. This has been led at a very necky 12a.
Start below a curving crack right of a rib. Climb up to the crack and follow it round the rib till it ends. Climb up to a V-crack and follow the right branch till it ends. Traverse in to the left branch and follow this to easy ground.

Love is Easy	5.11c**	20m
A steep, impressive line, but too far for Joe Normalclimber.
Start on the big ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Dai Nippon Kokumin Route. Climb the impressive fingercrack till it ends at a flake. Follow this up and left to a tree belay.

Dai Nippon Kokumin Route - The Great Japanese Citizen's Route	5.10a**	60m
A rambling crack climb with annoyingly short pitches.
Pitch 1.  5.7   Climb up to a wide crack and follow this to a tree belay. Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the continuation hand crack till it ends, then go up to a tree belay. Pitch 3.  ------ Drop down to the left and follow a diagonal line leftward to belay on a ledge below a hand crack. Pitch 4. 5.10a Climb the crack to the top.
To descend, it is possible to ab off, but better to scramble off right and walk across to the hiking course.

Mumei Ganpou Upper Section

Tiny Slab	5.10c**	18m
The obvious small, black, diamond-shaped slab starting from the path. Totally twee. Take bigs and smalls.
Start at a crack on the left. Climb diagonally right into the centre of the slab (crux) then direct to a weakness in the overlap above (good small wires). Pull through and climb to a corner at the back. Follow this up then diagonally left to a good tree (no lower-off).

XXX	5.10d*	17m
The left edge of the slab and the steep arete above. The grassy lower crack takes Friends.
Start at the crack on the left. Climb this to the overlap. Pull into a recess, then go left round the arete, up and back right onto the easy top slab. Finish at the same tree as Tiny Slab.

For the next routes, follow the path up past Tiny Slab, then climb a rickety ladder on the right. Follow the path round the back of Mumei Iwa and descend more rotting ladders. The path leads under a face on the right with an arrow painted on it - but a better landmark is the straight crack of Trial and Error, with a bolt at its top and bottom.

Trial and Error	5.10d**	18m
A good line with good moves. Deserves to be rebolted and more popular. Take Friends 2 - 4 and a Rock 1.
Start just left of the crack. Climb across to the bolt at its base, then pull into it and follow it till it ends at a crap ring bolt (bomber Rock 1 just below). Make a scary pull up right then go diagonally left (crux) and up to a lower-off. The name is very well chosen - you never seem to get the moves right first time.

Rabirinsu Kante - Labyrinth Arete	5.8	25m
Follow the path up and left from Trial and Error to the next sizable buttress (about 60m along the path). The first route is based on the vegetated rib right of the main face. Take a rack and some extra slings.
Pitch 1. 5.8 Start left of the rib. Climb across to its right, then pick the easiest line to a ledge and belay Pitch 2. 5.7 Zig left and zag right to another ledge. Pitch 3. -- Easy climbing to the top. To descend, scramble across to the left and drop down onto the hiking course or ab the route.

Pull over a bulge and into a niche just right of the centre of the face. Traverse right to the arete and climb it till it leads you left to a lower-off below the top. Old tat and no krab.

Humouresque	5.11b*	23m
The right arete of the main face.

Toroi Merai	5.11a**	22m
The central line proves quite enjoyable. Not sure about the name.
Pull over the bulge as for Humouresque. From the niche, climb direct to the lower-off.