Seishin Kante - Spiritual Arete	5.10a**	20m
The striking arete round to the right of the main slab. Unfortunately, not as good as it looks.
Climb a short juggy face and make a hairy move up left onto the arete. Follow this on huge holds to a choice of lower-off. The new first anchor is fine, but take care if lowering off from the second anchor. In fact, it might be better to ab or have someone follow the route to retrieve gear. An optional top pitch exists at 5.9 up the short slab behind the second lower-off.

On the Road	5.10b*	22m
Not really a route. The star is because the climbing on Seishin Kante is good.
Climb Doubt to a dike on the left. Traverse this into Seishin Kante and finish up this.

Doubt	5.11a	20m
A poor route with one hard move and some distinctly unnatural holds.
Climb the short easy face as for Seishin Kante, then continue direct to a ledge. A hard pull off this brings easier climbing to a junction with Seishin Kante. Follow this to the lower-off.

Ame ni Tatararete - Beaten by the Rain	5.11a*	25m
Fun climbing up a disjointed line.
Start a little further up the gully. Climb a short steep face, then a crusty slab. Continue up and right over easier ground to below a steep face. Pull onto this and climb direct to a lower-off.

XXX	5.12d	13m
The impressive face up and right of Ame ni Tatararete has two unclaimed, possibly unclimbed lines. The grade's a guess!
Climb the steep face on smooth holds to a lower-off.

Yane Ippou - Roof Rock One

Bicycle Dike	5.11d*****	18m
A superb route. Steel fingers required.
Step up onto the dike from the left. Pedal across this to a bolt and good holds. Question: Why is there an in-situ Krab in that bolt? Answer: Because that's where everybody gives up! But not you. Up, left, and up to a lower-off at a dead tree.

The impressive bolted line between Bicycle Dike and Kawa has been a 'project' since 1990, which must make it fair game. The hanger on the first bolt is missing.

Kawa - The River	5.11c****	18m
Another excellent route based on the series of weaknesses in the face/slab 20m right of Bicycle dike. A couple of medium Friends might make you feel better.
Use pockets and a semi-flake to reach a break - ignore the bolt on the right - then traverse left to a crack. Climb the crack till it ends then make a thin step right and smear up for good holds and the top. Ab/lower off.

Bireini Purizun - Villainy Prison	5.10d***	18m
Not really sure about the route name. The slabby rib 100m right of Kawa. The path appears to have disappeared, so follow the line of the foot of the rocks. Excellent slab-climbing using small pockets and smears.
Make hard moves to get established above the first bolt, then climb more easily to the last. Thin moves on crumbly holds lead up a scoop to a tree. No lower-off.

Colonel	5.10b	20m
The slab 10m right again. A serious lead. Start at the foot of the flake of Sarge. Take Friends 1-2½.
Pull up to the flake, then make tricky moves up and left to a bolt and good holds full of pine needles. Pull onto the top slab and climb direct to a grotty flake. Fill this with crap Friends, then step right and smear up disintegrating, mossy rock to a tree. No lower-off.

Sarge	5.9	22m
Another serious lead. Start at the foot of the rightwards-leading flake 10m right of Bireini Purizun.
Climb the flake to its end (good gear). Pull over (Friend 0 on one cam, or run it out to the bolt). From the bolt, get your head down and climb direct up crunchy, mossy rock to a tree on a ledge. No lower-off.

Hanataba - The Bouquet	5.10c**	15m
The pretty little corner, a bushwhacking 50m up and right again. Take a rack.
Climb the corner.

Umayadono Ouji - Prince Umayadono	5.12b	15m
The steep crack further up and right, just after a "Get Orf Moi Laand!" sign. Take a rack.
Climb the crack and the face above.

Junjou Iwa - Pure Rock

Harumagedon - Armageddon	5.10c	12m
A rather odd route, climbing the disjointed cracks to the right of the attractive bolted face. The face remains unclimbed, or unclaimed, at least, in 2009. Take a rack and ignore the bolts.
Start at a crack 4m right of an arete. Climb the cracks to a lower-off on the left.

Junjo Taihei no Kakatte Kinasai - Junjo Taihei's Get Up and Go	5.10c**	12m
The neat crack in the arete to the left of the bolted face.
Start on the right of the arete. Climb with increasing difficulty to a leaning finish and a badly placed lower-off over the back.

Akujou - Evil Woman	5.11c	10m
The left side of the arete of Junjo Tahei no Kakatte Kinasai.
Start by scrambling up to the terrace at about half height. Clip the third bolt of Junjo Taihei no Kakatte Kinasai, then climb the arete on its left to the top.

Ayashii Yatsu - Suspicious Character	5.12a*	8m
The steep, reachy arete round to the left.
Climb the arete after a fierce pull round the overhang. You can use the flake on the left for the fourth clip, but not for gaining height. So they say. You could also go and climb something better instead.

ZAP	5.10d**	16m
Basically a couple of variations on Sponta. Very artificial.
Start in a recessed little corner just left of Ayashii Yatsu. Bounce up and left out of the corner and climb diagonally left using horizontal breaks. From the third bolt, climb just right of the line of bolts. Finish up the arete on the right for your 10d tick.

Sponta	5.10b***	15m
The pleasant face left of Ayashii Yatsu. Steep, but with good holds.
Start just left of the small corner. Climb direct to the first bolt, then follow the line of bolts left. Move up and back right to a ledge. Climb the top face left of the bolts (crux).

Porokke	5.9**	12m
The discontinuous crack to the left of Sponta. Not long enough. Friends 1-3 should do it.
Climb the undercut lower straight crack to a small tree, then climb the curving upper crack to the top and a lower-off.

The Upper Section

Cowbell	5.11c**	11m
The lefthand line on the steep wall set back from the Panorama Course. Take Friends 1-2.
Start just right of a tree. Unless it's been chopped. Pull over a bulge on the left and climb strenuously to a crack. Up this to a lower-off.

Gogatsu Hatsuka no Wedding Present - May the 20th Wedding Present	5.10d**	11m
The steadily widening crack 5m right (not the one with a bolt to get to it - that's unclaimed, and rightly so). Rack up.
Climb with increasing difficulty to a kink left. Pull up and rest on two good knobs. Finish on painful wide jams at a couple of small trees.

Anderakurosu	5.12a*	8m
The short steep line right again.
After a desperate start, make strenuous, technical moves to a lower-off. Dodgy tat.

The next routes are gained by scrambling down into a bay down and right of Anderakurosu. There are some fixed ropes in place, but they've been there a while.

Merudou - Meldow	5.11d**	15m
The slabby rib and steep face above. Strangely unpopular. Take some Friends.
Pull onto the rib from the left and climb it past a scary clip to where the face says "Oi!" Interesting climbing up the face to a lower-off.

Moulin Rouge	5.11c***	17m
Good mixed climbing, but you might have some trouble getting past the in situ dogger.
Start at a flake in the centre of the face. Climb the flake (Friend 2.5), then make a thin couple of moves left and go up to a dike. Step right and go boldly up to a lower-off.

Yahou Genki - Hey! How are you doing?	5.10b*	10m
The flakes and jugs in the arete right of Moulin Rouge - short, but very steep.
Pull up to the first flake then make a balancy layback and heave to a break. A surprisingly delicate step up gains a lower-off at a dike.

Country Road	5.11c***	14m
The steep, bolted crack to the right of Yahou Genki.
Climb the crack to its end then climb rightwards to a tree. Sustained.

Unagi - The Eel	5.13b**	11m
The leaning, shallow groove to the right of Country Road.
Climb up to the groove and climb this by a series of dynamic moves that may or may not involve a lunge. Sustained. The first bolt is usually pre-clipped.

Chikara The Ooiwa - Ooiwa Power	5.12c***	10m
The very steep undercling and layback up and right of Country Road.
Pull up to the bulge and layback round and up to a lower-off. Gorillas only.

Onigiri Iwa - Riceball Rock

Shake Flake - Salmon Flake	5.10c**	20m
A stiff start leads to pleasant climbing up the flake and slab.
Start up on the right and make a hard traverse across the slab to the curving flake. Pull up onto the flake, then smear neatly to a tree a couple of metres below the doss of Omusubiyama Slab. 5.10b in the Japanese guides, but the loss of a small foothold near the start seems to have made it harder.

Suupaa Onigiri - Superriceball	5.11c	21m
The rightmost line round the corner from Shake Flake. A hard start and not much else.
Desperate moves up the short hanging runnel lead to a pull onto the top slab. Finish as for Shake Flake or Shio Konbu.

Shio Konbu - Salty Seaweed	5.11a**	20m
Sustained, varied and good.
Start just left of Suupaa Onigiri at a short thin crack and flake. Good technical moves lead to a good break. Mantel onto this, then make a tricky pull onto the slab above. After a scary smear and clip, the angle starts to give. Mantel onto a good hold on the right and smear pleasantly to the tree at the bottom of Omusubiyama Slab. 10c if you use the hole right of the flake.

Pride One	5.10c**	12m
The centre of the short face set up, back and right of China Syndrome.
After a tricky reach to make the first clip, heave up to below the left edge of a face. Using a flake, bounce up the steep bit to the centre of the slab. Make a stiff pull to where the angle relents, then climb easily to a stonking tree. No lower-off.

China Syndrome	5.11b***	20m
The attractive (bolted) thin crack in the slender buttress to the left of Pride One. Nice climbing, but unfortunately escapable.
Pull onto the front of the buttress from the right. Follow the crack to where it ends, then make a tasty smear up and right to a break. Pull up the steep section on good holds, then pad easily over the back to a lower-off on a tree.

Kobito Crack - Dwarf Crack	5.10a**	23m
A worthwhile crack climb. Take a set of Friends and some small to medium wires.
Start down and left of China Syndrome, at the base of a big fallen tree. Pull out left onto a scruffy rib and move round to the base of a slab. Climb the crack in the right edge of the slab till it ends at a faint dike. Mantel and pull right into another crack line. Follow this past a tree to a lower-off.

Daimajin - The Sorcerer	5.11c***	25m
An excellent route off the beaten track that should improve since recent (2008) storms blew down some of the trees that were hemming it in.
Start as for Kobito Crack. Pull out left onto the scruffy rib and move round to the base of the slab. Technical moves diagonally leftwards lead to a fierce pull onto a tiny dike and another tricky move gains a niche. Pull right out of this and go up to the lower-off of Kobito Crack.

Koropokkuru - The Little Folk	5.11d*	23m
The attractive slab left of the chimney is not as good as it looks, but might clean up with the demise of nearby cypresses.
Start 8m round to the left of Daimajin and just right of a choked corner. Climb direct on scratchy rock to reach an obvious small white flake (if it's still there - it's a bit fragile, to say the least). Make a hard move up and right into the chimney, then pull across onto the slab on the right and move up to the niche of Daimajin and finish up this. The crux is getting to and from the white flake.

Hyaku Paasento Furyou Shoujou - 100% Bad Girl	5.11a*	22m
A once cracking, varied pitch, but the corner is now quite chossy. Take a rack.
Start 8m left of Koropokkuru at an obvious capped corner. This is only a few metres above the Panorama Course, but difficult to see. Climb the corner to an undercling traverse left, then power up the arete to a lower-off.

Omusubiyama Slab - Riceball Slab

Maystorm	5.10c***	25m
A lovely climb up the slender rib and slab on the left edge of the crag. Low in the grade.
Start down and left from the main part of the terrace on a ledge formed by a tree - belay advised! Make a couple of thin moves to gain the rib proper and follow this slightly rightwards. Make a tricky move past a flake (crux) then follow the left edge of the main slab to a sparkling chain. Purists will continue for 6m to a lower-off on a slim cedar (the original finish).

Mumei Route - Nameless	5.10a***	15m
The leftmost line on the front of the slab. The start has been chipped, but it doesn't seem to have got any easier.
The start is still the crux, despite the chipping. Lurch onto a high foothold and balance up to a huge jug. Step left, then climb direct and then slightly rightwards to a lower-off. The central section has some great holds.

Remembrance	5.10c***	15m
Also low in the grade, with the crux at the bottom, also chipped, though I can't see where. The start seems to have got harder, if anything, but it's worth persevering.
Desperate moves past the first bolt gain a decent foothold. Step left and up onto the slab proper, then climb up and slightly right past a good pocket to a slim rib. Follow this more easily to the same lower-off as Mumei Route. It is possible to avoid the start using a flake on the right, but then you can't have a 10c tick.

Lavender	5.10b***	17m
Supposedly the easiest route hereabouts, the start is a real frightener.
Climb right of Remembrance on glassy holds past a drooping ring bolt that surely can't take another fall. After a nasty mantel above this, things ease off till a scratchy traverse below a dike to the lower-off of Remembrance. You can also climb a pleasant second pitch to the top (10m, take medium Friends). 2004 and the ring bolt has gone and its replacement as first bolt has been raised about a foot, which is 30cm in Newspeak.

Jacob's Ladder	5.10d****	25m
Lovely climbing, sustained lower down.
Start right of Lavender, on the tree roots. Climb slightly right and up to pockets and a weakness in the dike. Mantel, then make thin moves to reach a mantel on the next dike. Good climbing in an almost direct line leads to a third dike and lower-off. You can also continue in the same line to the top (a dirty 10m).

Honyaragokko	5.10c***	30m
A nice long pitch, but a bit uneven. Take Friends 1.5 and 2.5.
Start as for Jacob's Ladder. Traverse out right past a perfect Friend 1.5 slot to a small flake and bolt. Climb direct past a couple of dikes to a crack. Up this and the slab above to a dike and lower-off. Ab/lower-off (OK on a 50m rope), or climb a second pitch up the crack and slab above (10m).

Pipeline	5.11a****	25m
The hardest route on the slab - don't believe the Japanese guides (they give it 5.10d). Sustained slab climbing with some slippery holds. Take a Friend 3.
Start down and right from Honyaragokko. Pull up to a bolt, then climb easily to a tricky pull left into a recess. A hard pull right out of this on glassy holds leads to sustained climbing direct to a dike and lower-off. Ab/lower-off.

Shiizun Ofu - Off Season	5.10c***	18m
Slightly out of character with its scruffiness and steep crack, but still good. Take Friends 1-3.
Start well up and right of Pipeline at a slightly overhanging crack (follow the edge of the slab up from Pipeline, pull over a boulder by a fixed rope, go up to the head of the gully and step left to a twee little bay below the crack). Climb the crack to a slab, then pull left onto a second slab. Up this on crusty holds to a tree and lower-off. A new lower-off has been whacked in lower down to save the crusty slabbing, but I quite enjoyed that part.

Jantaku Slab - Mahjong Table Slab

Titan Chimney	5.9	18m
The obvious filthy chimney. Take a rack, vacuum cleaner and bucket and spade.
Follow the chimney to a lower-off on the left. The rock is almost clean for the last few metres.

Takara Sagashi - Treasure Hunting	5.11a**	18m
Nice enough steep slab-climbing.
Start just left of Kokushimusou. Climb straight up to the good pocket of Kokushimusou, then traverse left to the lower-off of Titan Chimney. The bolts are quite spaced.

Kokushimusou	5.11c****	40m
The shallow groove to the right of Takara Sagashi. Technical, sustained and fingery - top stuff! ("Kokushimusou" is a hand in mahjong somewhat equivalent to a straight flush in poker) (Apparently).
Start below the groove. Follow the groove by good moves till it is possible to stand in a good pocket. Many people go left here to the lower-off at the top of Titan Chimney. This way you can lower off on one rope. But hey, that's convenience climbing! Follow the bolts up and right to an anchor.

Kunoichi	5.11d***	24m
Start a short way up the gully to the right. Balanced and balancy.
Climb the slab left again a grotty lower-off. Word is, you can use the arete, but you can't step round it.

Koninja - Ninja Child	5.12b*	23m
The next line up the gully. A desperate start and pleasant finish.
Make baffling moves to where the angle eases, then climb more easily to the same lower-off as Kunoichi.

Heiwa Face - Peace Face	5.9**	15m
The rightmost line on the slab. A very pleasant climb, but the first bolt needs replacing, and the route could do with a lower-off.
Start 15m up the gully, by a tree. (If you don't like the look of the first bolt, I recommend a sling high in this tree.) Pull steeply up and foot-traverse left to gain the first bolt, which looks more out than in. Continue direct by a sustained sequence till the angle gives out after the last bolt. Continue in the same line to a dike, then traverse left to belay at a tree. No lower-off and no easy way down. Either jigger a way down into the gully from which the climb starts, or walk off a long way right (facing in - follow the old steel cable above the route) till it is possible to drop down onto the approach path.

Yane Nihou - Roof Rock Two

Nanryou - South Ridge	5.11a*	60m
A poor route that makes the most of what rock there is. Pitches 2, 6 and 7 are the most worthwhile. The top pitch is way out of character with the rest and can easily be omitted (as can the whole route, in fact).
Pitch 1. 5.6 Climb the centre of the slab past a single bolt to belay in trees on the right. Pitch 2. 5.10a Step onto the slab on the right and climb this pleasantly past a tricky move at the third bolt to its top. Pitch 3. 5.4 Bumble up the jumbled slabs to the foot of the next piece of rock of consequence (with a flake at the right edge of a slab). Pitch 4. 5.8 Climb the flake and pull left onto the slab. Up the slab to a tree on the left. Pitch 5. 5.10a Drop down to the left (facing in) to a gully. Descend this for a few metres to a short face on the right. This is the face with P.T.A. Climb the right edge of the face past a good flake to a dirty slab. Up this to belay on a well-treed terrace. Pitch 6. 5.10a Climb the steep face in front of you, crux at the bottom, to another spacious ledge. Pitch 7. 5.11a Step up behind the belay and make a stiff traverse right to a jug and a crack slanting back left. Easier moves lead to a tree belay.
Climb down the gully behind the belay then descend the bigger gully to the left (facing out) of the top pitch. There is one tricky section near the top.

The P.T.A. Slab

Kore ga Jack no Kekkon Kinen Route dewa Anmari deshouka - Do you think it is sad if this is Jack's Wedding Anniversary Route?	5.10c	8m
The ridiculously short leftmost line on the slab has the dubious distinction of being shorter than its name.
Climb the deceptively tricky slab to a lower-off in a tree.

Hoshi to Hikari - Stars and Light	5.12a***	11m
The slab right again features some fierce moves on dots and smears. Not much to look at, but very worthwhile.
Start just right of a decent smear at chest height. Make the most of it, because there's not much else besides till above the third bolt. Lower off as for Kore ga Jack...

P.T.A.	5.11b****	11m
The short shallow crack. An excellent route that really gets you involved. The bottom three bolts were renewed in 2008.
Climb the crack till it ends then make thin moves to stand on a sloping, but decent foothold under an overlap. A scary smear for a flake gains a ringbolt, from which a couple of neat pulls lead to a terrace and lower-off.

D.D.T.	5.10d**	13m
The face right of P.T.A.
Tricky starting moves lead to an easy slab. Pull up and mantel onto a big break/small ledge, depending on the mood you're in. Step up and left then finish direct. Lower off.

Andaa Andaa - Under Under	5.11b*	25m
The steep and unfortunately dirty crackline up and left of P.T.A. Take a rack.
Gain the terrace above P.T.A. from the gully on the left. Climb a flake and move slightly right to an undercling. Follow this to a crack. Up this to a ledge. Ab/lower off.

The Main Section

Kogure Dai Saakasu - The Great Kogure Circus	5.10c**	16m
A very enjoyable pitch.
Start well round to the right of the front face at a two-bolt belay on a terrace. Climb the steep face just left of the arete on good holds to a swing left and mantel to where the angle eases off. Make crux moves to reach an obvious flake hold and pull up to where the slab falls asleep. Pad up to a lower-off.

Diamond Slab	5.8***	27m
A pleasant slab pitch - once the lowly first pitch of Selection, but now proclaimed as a route in its own right. Take medium Friends if you do the crack start.
Start round to the right of the main face at a short crack. Climb this to a possible belay, then follow the righthand line up the slab to a chain. The bolts were renewed and repositioned in 2002, making for longer runouts between decent protection. It is possible to start and finish as for Dark Crystal. Two abs to get down, unless you came with two ropes.

Selection	5.8****	100m
An excellent long route that juggles slabs and cracks and finishes in a great position. On the upper pitches, be careful not to knock anything down.
Pitch 1. 5.8 The crack start of Diamond Slab. Belay at the top of the crack. Pitch 2. 5.8 The slab section of Diamond Slab. If there are more than 2 in your party, you might want to tie someone to the twin trees on a narrow ledge right of the chain. Pitch 3. 5.5 Gain the ledge on the right, if you haven't already, and from its right edge, traverse a tree root into a chimney. Back-and-foot the easy chimney (behind the chockstone) to good ledges and scramble up to an excellent picnic spot on the col. Pitch 4. 5.8 Above the ledges, a short slab protected by two bolts leads to a bottomless corner/flake. Gain the bolts from the short corner and wide crack below and right or the tree below and left (the tree's more fun), then smear up to the corner/flake. Climb this on generally good holds and gear to belay in a good position on small trees and gear on narrow ledges at the top of the flake. If your party is nervous and/or numerous, it might be better to keep going - as long as the drag is manageable. Pitch 5. 5.7 Follow the ledges up and left to an overlap, then pull back right across a slab to a corner. Up this to belay on a big tree in a recess. It is possible to escape to the top through here. But you don't want to do that. Pitch 6. 5.7 Drop down to real rock again, then traverse airily left to belay in a wonderful position at the foot of a big Y-shaped crack. Pitch 7. 5.8 Climb the crack via its left fork to the top. The right fork is easier but thrutchier.
Descend by walking left (facing in) to a narrow gully with a steel cable running down it. Descend this carefully using the cable as a hand rail till the cable then gully run out. Scramble left (facing in) and down across a wooded hillside (there's one nasty step across between a couple of trees, but you can easily protect this if anybody in the party doesn't fancy it) to drop down onto a path at the start of Jet Stream. Follow this path left (facing out) under Yane Nihou's main face back to the bottom of the route. Be careful, because, if you miss the path that cuts in, you'll end up back down on the Kamoshika Hiking Course (eventually). Alternatively, you can ab down the front of Yane Nihou, which I don't recommend unless you know where you're going. Or, if you don't need to get to the bottom of Yane Nihou, you can follow a path right (facing in) off the top and back down a gully to the Panorama Hiking Course between Yane Ippou and Omusubiyama Slab. The same cable that runs left off the top also runs right along this path and down the gully (the path is very narrow for one short section, but keep the faith!). The gully itself requires a short downclimb.

Aburamushi - The Cockroach	5.12b**	10m
The innocuous rib between the starts of Diamond Slab and Dark Crystal is a lot harder than it looks.
Climb the rib direct to a lower-off by some desperate moves. This was the original (aided) start to Diamond Slab.

Chawanmushi - Egg Custard	5.11a*	8m
The savoury sort. The short flake-line left of Aburamushi.
A neat layback start is followed by a worrying steep layback where the flakes run out. Step up to a lower-off. These moves may not be so worrying since an extra bolt appeared near the top.

Dark Crystal	5.9****	27m
Very pleasant slab-climbing that nevertheless requires a degree of caution.
Start on the right edge of the terrace running down from the left. Step up carefully, then pull steeply into a notch. Climb straight up past a flake (possible Friends) to the broad slab and follow a line up the centre of this to finish up a water chute and belay under Kumo no Ito. Two abs to get down, unless you came with a 60m rope.

Curry Syndrome	5.10c**	11m
The short steep face just left of Dark Crystal. Good fun.
Start at a couple of small pockets at chest height. Long reaches between good holds lead dynamically to a short slab. Skitter up this to a krabless lower-off.

Oorora Nigou - Aurora II	5.11a**	28m
Good open climbing after an indifferent start. Start up Curry Syndrome for a better route all round.
Climb the broken line of flakes left of Curry Syndrome steeply to a slab. Up this to the lower-off of Curry Syndrome, but keep going to the right edge of the overhang above. Crux moves through this at a disconcertingly rattly bolt lead to a lovely top slab. Finish at the lower-off of Dark Crystal - two abs to get down, unless you came with a 60m rope.

Kabutomushi - The Beetle	5.12a***	15m
A popular route up a prominent line.
Start about 20m up and left of Dark Crystal. Climb out right to a slender arete. Pull left over a small hang and continue up the slim face above on insecure holds. Pull onto a slab and go easily to a lower-off.

Chiki Chiki Ban Ban - Chitty Chitty Bang Bang	5.11b***	15m
Another popular route, requiring a variety of techniques and boasting an excellent photo platform. Said to have been chipped since I was on it, so it might be easier.
Start up and left of Kabutomushi. Climb direct to the left side of a prominent isolated bulge. Pull right to the bulge and undercling round it. Follow the obvious traverse line right till it ends, then pull up to join Kabutomushi. Follow this to the lower-off.

Katatsumuri - The Snail	5.12c****	15m
An excellent route - a good line, great moves, and a tad exciting. Take some large Friends and small to medium wires.
Start up and left of Chiki Chiki Ban Ban. Climb steeply up to gain the obvious flake. Power up this to where it becomes a crack and then fades. Pull out past a bolt on the right and go up to a lower-off.

The Upper Section

Tentoumushi - The Ladybird	5.11d***	15m
Another powerful line.
Start up and left of Katatsumuri, at the next obvious flake. Follow the flake to its end. Step left, up, and back right to get the lower-off. The original climbed direct to the lower-off from the last bolt at 12a.

Jet Stream	5.10c*****	50m
Good climbing in an increasingly airy situation across the big dike. There's no seconding on this route! Start where the big upper dike meets a vegetated chimney way up and left. Belay on the best tree you can find.
Pitch 1. 5.10c Step across a chimney to gain the dike and hand-traverse past one tricky move till it is possible to stand on the dike. Continue traversing to a hanging belay. Pitch 2. 5.10c Tell your mate you'll lead this pitch. Take Friends 1 and 1.5 for the final crack. Step up onto the dike and foot-traverse across, down, across and up to a tree belay.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance at the top of Kumo no Ito, then ab to the stance at its bottom. Traverse left to the top of Chiki Chiki Ban Ban and ab again, or ab to the terrace above the crack on the first pitch of Selection and ab again.

Yousorou	5.11a**	25m
Good climbing in an airy situation, but the long descent spoils the fun somewhat.
Climb Jet Stream for about 10m then mantel onto the dike. Hard moves off the dike lead to pleasant slab climbing in a good position. Finish at a lower-off under the big hang.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance on Jet Stream, ab again to the lower-off on Katatsumuri then ab to the bottom.

Gypsy	5.9**	17m
More pleasant, exposed slab-climbing, but the long approach and descent detract.
Start from the stance on Jet Stream. Move left and climb a kind of crack and the slab above to a lower-off under the big hang.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance on Jet Stream, ab again to the lower-off on Katatsumuri then ab to the bottom.

Mizusumashi - The Whirligig	5.8*	16m
More pleasant, exposed and hard-to-get-to slab-climbing.
Start from the stance on Jet Stream. Climb the runnel and slab above to a lower-off under the big hang.
If you're using a single rope, ab to the stance on Jet Stream, ab again to the lower-off on Katatsumuri then ab to the bottom.

The following routes start on or level with the big ledge at the top of pitch 2 of Selection. Also described from right to left.

Kumo no Jinjuurou - Jinjuurou the Spider	5.12c**	40m
The righthand line up the steep face right of Kumo no Ito. Rarely climbed.
Start from the right edge of the ledge. Climb the face by piecing together a vague series of cracks and flakes to a tree, if you feel like it.

Otegara Bruce-san - Well Done, Bruce	5.12c*	20m
The lefthand line.
Start from the left edge of the ledge. Climb the face almost direct to a lower-off. Crux at the fourth bolt.

Kumo no Ito - Spider's Thread	5.11b*****	20m
A line to die for. Excellent climbing in a superb situation. You'll appreciate it even more when you see the line from a distance. Take a rack. The bolts on the traverse were renewed in 1999.
Start from the belay at the top of Dark Crystal. Climb the easy corner behind the belay. At its top, traverse left to the foot of the crack and climb on good locks to a thin move off the second dike (crux, and, occasionally, peg). Continue up easier cracks to a tree belay. The word is, you're not allowed to touch the crack on the left AT ALL.
To get down, ab/lower off back to the start then, if you're using a single 50m rope, traverse left to the top of Chiki Chiki Ban Ban and ab, or ab to the terrace above the crack on the first pitch of Selection and ab again.

Kareki wo Otoshita You! - Look Out! I Dropped a Dead Tree!	5.11a**	20m
The wider crack to the left of Kumo no Ito. Take a rack and go heavy on the bigs. Worth an extra star if gardened.
Start from the belay at the top of Dark Crystal. Climb the easy corner behind the belay, traverse left in to Kumo no Ito, then step left to the crack. Climb this to a tree belay. (Before Kumo no Ito became a route in its own right, this route climbed the easiest line using both cracks.)
Descend as for Kumo no Ito.

Koganemushi - The Gold Beetle	5.12b***	20m
The short corners and steep face above the lower-off of Kabutomushi.
Start from the belay at the top of Kabutomushi. Climb a short left-facing corner, then traverse left and climb a short right-facing corner. Climb the face above, then step right and climb direct till level with a lower-off on the right. Traverse to this to finish. Lower off, or climb one of the following two routes - might as well - you'll probably never be here again.

Abracadabra	5.11a***	30m
Good climbing on small pockets in a way out there situation.
Start from the belay at the top of Koganemushi. Climb the lefthand line direct to the dike of Jet Stream.
Not sure where you finish or how to get off. Looks like you might just run it out to the traverse of Selection.

Prism	5.10d**	30m
Similar to Abracadabra, but not quite as good. Is what I heard.
Start from the belay at the top of Koganemushi. Climb the righthand line direct to the dike of Jet Stream.
Not sure where you finish or how to get off. Looks like you might just run it out to the traverse of Selection.

Soramame Slab - Broad Bean Slab

The broad slab and surrounding rocks in the gully that separates Yane Nihou and Yane Sanpou. The routes are described in three sections: The Lower Slab, Soramame Slab itself, and Outlying Crags. A good mix of steep and slabby routes that doesn't get too crowded, although recently the number of climbers has picked up since the area was more extensively developed and word got out just how good Soramame is.
The Lower Slab is easily identified by the two trees that have fallen across the gully. It's amazing that the one is still alive.

Approach as for Yane Iwa, but take the path at the second cairn on the left (for Yane Sanpou - the first cairn on the left leads to a boulder). This leads in five minutes to a fork in the path. Take the right fork and drop down into a dry stream bed. Up this to the Lower Slab, clearly marked by a rock- and tree-fall. The main area is just above this and the outlying crags are dotted around the hillside left and up from here. You can also get here by following a path off to the left just after the rock step on the path to Yane Nihou, or by dropping down from the base of Yane Nihou.
Here's an extra map to add to your confusion:

Soramame Area

Number	Crag Name (Click to Get There)
1	Yane Gohou
2	Yane Yonhou
3	Yane Sanpou
4	Yane Nihou
5	P.T.A. Slab
6	Nanryou
7	Hidon Danna Iwa
8	Danna Iwa Shoumen Heki
9	Okusan Slab
10	Soramame Slab
11	Danna Iwa III
12	Danna Iwa II
13	Soramame Kabu Slab
14	Colombia Mame Boulder

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Kabu Slab - The Lower Slab

10m right of the Lower Slab, Johnny Desperate saw new route glory where you or I might have seen a grotty narrow low-angled slab split by a tree-choked crack. The results are the following two routes (graded for tree-free ascents):

Wild Tajan	5.10c*	12m
The righthand line. Some crunchy rock.
Step onto a fragile hold at the base of the right leg of the slab. Make a tricky move up to easier climbing, then a crux high step using a shallow slot to finish. Ab or lower off the cedar overhanging the route - but check you're happy with those saw scars first!

Mild Tajan	5.8	12m
The lefthand line of the slab. Pointless, but not unpleasant.
Climb out of a shallow corner and step left to the base of the slab. Make easy moves up till the trees on the left force you diagonally right to the tree at the top of Wild Tajan.

Amashoku - Sugarcone	5.10b**	18m
The right arete of the Lower Slab. Low in the grade and nice enough. Amashoku is a cone-shaped sweet.
Start at the lowest part of the arete. Pull up onto the arete on suspect holds and climb easily to an overhang. Turn this using a good hold on the right, then step left and smear up to a lower-off. You can also turn the hang on the left (same grade).

Slab no Gyakushuu - The Return of the Slab	5.11c****	15m
The central and original line of the slab. Excellent technical moves. If you can onsight this, you're in the wrong skin.
Delicate moves lead to an obvious flakehold in the dike. Somehow stand on the dike, pull up to a break, then pull into the scoop on the right using a good flake and pad up this to a lower-off. 2004, and the last foothold below the dike is suspiciously bigger than it used to be.

Sanshoku Sumire - The Pansy	5.10b*	14m
The next line to the left. Low in the grade, but with some big booming flakes at the top.
Climb the slab just left of Slab no Gyakushuu to an overlap. Too far left and you're using holds on Namaki ga Taoreta yo. Pull up to reach some hollow flakes. Pull onto these then make a tricky smear up to a lower-off.

Namaki ga Taoreta yo - Timber!	5.8*	10m
The leftmost line of the slab. Not particularly good.
Start on the tree that fell over and left a clean white patch. Climb the slab direct on big holds and booming flakes to the lower-off of Sanshoku Sumire. The crux is a high step right above the second flake.

Soramame Slab

Ura no Jet Stream - Jet Stream at the Back	5.11b**	20m
A strenuous jug-puller up the slim bounding wall of the slab. The rock's still a bit dirty and the finish is an anti-climax - otherwise, very good.
Start under an overhang at the lefthand end of the crag. Pull over via some pretty sexy moves and a glued on hold, then pull round the arete to the left and follow the slanting wall to a tree/bolt lower-off. If you decide to fall off, watch how you swing. Someone will have to follow to get the gear.

Soramame Hangu Suupaa - Super Broad Bean Hang	5.11d*	16m
Difficult moves through the big overhang.
Start under the center of the big overhang. Pull up steeply to the roof, then power over to the left of the obvious block. Continue up the face above to a lower-off.

Soramame Hangu - Broad Bean Hang	5.10d***	16m
A good steep route. A soft touch for the strong.
Start under the righthand end of the big overhang. Pull round at a rather temporary-looking block and continue on good holds to a lower-off.

Long Long Ago	5.10b***	35m
A cracking route, worth a cup of tea in anyone's cafe.
Climb the steep face just right of a small arete. Step left across a crack, pull up (crux), then climb the long slab more or less direct to a lower-off.
To get down with a single rope, lower off or ab to the stance of Soramame Hang, then ab to the bottom.

D-Gumi no Bouken - D-Group's Adventure	5.12b*	25m
A very hard start and a saunter. If you can do the start, you probably don't need to worry about runners in the top crack. Take some big Friends if you're not sure - it is, after all, your life.
Start where the path runs up to the right to Soramame. Climb straight up the wall with difficulty to gain a standing position in a break. Wazz up the easy crack in the slab to a lower-off.

Kaettekita Tajan - Tarzan's Back	5.11b***	20m
Good slab-climbing with a very intricate crux sequence. If you find any skin up there, it's mine!
Start just at the top of the path onto the top of the Lower Slab, between a couple of sawn off trees. Make a long reach for a jug, then heave up to the foot of the slab. Mantel onto a dike, then make thin moves up to finish slightly right at a lower-off.

XXX	5.10c*	20m
The 'line' of ring and RCC bolts between Kaettekita Tajan and Soramame. (2007, this seems to have been stripped.)
Start up either Kaettekita Tajan or Soramame, then traverse to the first shiny bolt. Continue direct to the lower-off of Kaettekita Tajan. The crux is avoiding holds in Soramame.

Soramame - Broad Bean	5.9****	20m
Superb slab-climbing after a polished start. Sustained and high in the grade!
Start up and right, on top of the Lower Slab. Pull up steeply into a shallow corner, then step left onto the slab as soon as possible. Follow the slab as it becomes a rib to a point-of-no-return smear. Keep going for better holds and a lower-off on the left.

Yawaraka Soramame - Not So Broad Bean	5.7	10m
The furthest route right on the main slab. Very easy and not much fun.
Start up and right, on top of the Lower Slab. Pull onto the wall on good holds and continue up the slab above past one tricky smear to a lower-off hanging out of a tree or two.

Corner Number Zero	5.10a*	14m
The furthest route right, past a nondescript steep wall with a couple of bolts. It was possible get here by dropping down and right from Yawaraka Soramame, but the dodgy log bridge has disintegrated, requiring a nasty traverse across a dirty slab. It is safer and better to skirt the Lower Slab right of Amashoku till you hit a corner slanting left. Take a set of Friends.
Climb into the lower corner from the bolted arete on the right. Gain the base of the top corner by a balancy move above dodgy gear (Friends 0 and 0.5), then continue more easily to a lower-off (unconnected chains). Crumbly in places and slow to dry.

Outlying Crags

Endorphin	5.13c**	8m
The righthand line on the roof of the boulder (called Danna Iwa II - Husband Rock II) just left and slightly down from the main area. Technical and very strenuous. It's also said to be good. Not that I'd know.
Follow the bolts, crux between the third and fourth.

Synapse	5.12c**	7m
The lefthand line on the roof of the boulder just left and slightly down from the main area.
Follow the bolts, with a lunge or two.

Slightly down and left of Danna Iwa II is Danna Iwa III, which has two crumbly routes.

Kusamizo Chokujou Route - XXX Direct	5.10d**	10m
The left edge of the face. Crap rock but nice moves.
Follow crumbly flakes (possible Friends) to a long reach for a flat hold. Pull up to a crack right of the arete. Use this and a pocket to reach a jug on the arete. Mantel to a lower-off.

Kusamizo Migi Route - XXX Right	5.9	10m
The disintegrating face just right of Kusamizo Chokujou Route. Appalling rock, totally unjustifiable. Take a rack if you decide to bother.
Climb past a bolt to discontinuous, dirty cracks. Follow these to the top and a lower-off. Now try and convince yourself it was worth it.

Down and left again is Colombia Mame Boulder (Colombia Bean Boulder), which has two top-rope problems and a "project".

The Horse	5.11b**	15m
The righthand problem.
Start at the lefthand end of the boulder. Climb straight up then right and back left.

Before Midnight	5.11a*	8m
The lefthand problem.
Start as for The Horse at the lefthand end of the boulder. Climb straight up then left and back right.

Just up from Danna Iwa II and left of Soramame Slab is Okusan Slab - Wife Slab.

Tsurukame Slab - XXX	5.8*	10m
The left edge of the attractive slab.
Follow the oddly spaced bolts up the left of the slab, crux at the start. At the time of writing (May, 2004), there is no lower-off and no convenient tree. The big fallen dead tree just over the top that used to pass as an anchor has rotted through, so you'll have to make do with something on the top two RCC bolts that are conveniently close together. Note that there is a lot of loose rock above this slab.

Hatarake! Rock Climber - Work, Climber!	5.12b***	9m
Up and left of Okusan Slab is Danna Iwa Shoumen Heki - Husband Rock Main Wall. Indeed. This consists of a short corner between two overhanging faces.
Climb the centre of the right wall of the corner. If you're strong, it's fun! The araldite just adds to the experience.

Kuuberutan no Gyakushuu - The Return of Coubertin	5.10c**	9m
The bolted corner with a good crack.
Climb the corner. The difficulties relent with the angle.

Buppou Slab - Buddhist Slab	5.11b**	15m
The path up and left of the foot of Danna Iwa Shoumen Heki leads to an attractive slab left of a grim crevice. This is Hidon Danna Iwa - Hidden Husband Rock.
Pleasant, with one hard move, which the devious can avoid. Start just left of a dirty flake. Make technical moves on small holds to gain a standing position on a prominent sharp white hold. Make a long reach for a good hold up and left. Pull up and climb the slab easily to a lower-off on the arete. The good hold may be full of pine needles.

Unknown	5.10b*	14m
The lefthand line of the slab, low in the grade.
Start behind a big tree left of Buppou Slab. Udge up to a small flake and use this to make a long reach for a good hold. Mantel then climb the easier top slab in "go anywhere" mode. Finish at a tree (with lower-off) over the back. Worth doing, but getting mossy.

Onna Yonde. Fugi - A Little Bit on the Side	5.11c*	13m
The lefthand line of the steep wall. Both routes on this wall suffer from a lack of traffic. Ignore the fixed rope! Approach from the slab on the right.
Start up the gully round to the right of Buppou slab. Climb the wall just in from the arete to the third bulge. Pull over and resist the temptation and obvious holds just right by finishing up the arete. Lower off.

Bunbunbun	5.11d*	12m
The righthand line of the steep wall. Fingery.
Follow the bolts to the lower-off. The first is usually stick-clipped - but you don't need that.

Yane Sanpou - Roof Rock Three

The narrower peak to the left of Nihou, mostly hidden in forest when seen from the campsite. There aren't many routes, as the rock is quite broken, but what there are are generally good and the crag is rarely crowded.

Take the Kamoshika Course to the waterfall and turn right at the big boulder onto the Panorama Course. Follow the path for 250m and turn left at the first prominent cairn (as for Soramame Slab). Follow the path to Okusan Slab. Skirt this on the right then follow a less distinct path up the gully directly above. The path leads in five steep minutes to the slanting sidewall of the southwest face. Routes are described from left to right, as approached. The broad open corner of Nanryou Kanagawa Route pitch 1 is immediately obvious.
It is also possible to get here by following a path down into the gully from the start of Jet Stream.
While you're up here follow the path up to the col then go right a few metres and up to a rock podium (this eventually leads to the top of Yane Nihou). This is a good spot for photos of Meltdown, and gives you an almost full-on view of the huge back (northwest) face of Yane Sanpou. Anything north of the col is somebody else's property and climbing is not allowed. What a waste.

Nanryou Kanagawa Route - South Ridge Kanagawa Route	5.8***	135m
A nice long stroll in a pleasant situation, but a bit too broken. Take a rack to back up the old pegs and bolts, and plenty of slings.
Pitch 1. 5.6 Climb the slab just left of the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a big tree on a good ledge. Pitch 2. 5.4 Follow the tree-filled ramp up leftwards to belay on the last decent tree (easily combined with Pitch 1). Pitch 3. 5.7 Climb good cracks and flakes left and up to another tree belay on a good ledge. Slightly harder and less pleasant since a tree and flake popped in 2003. Pitch 4. 5.8 The crux thrutch pitch. Climb the chimney behind the belay to a tree. Climb the continuation short crack to belay at a tree on a spacious terrace. Pitch 5. 5.5 Walk back a bit and climb over a dead tree (if it's still there) and broken ground to a crack up and right. Climb this to the top and belay over the back.
Descend by scrambling down and right (facing in) to a gully. Be very careful not to knock anything down. Drop down this to the sloping ledges above Meltdown. Continue in the same line (right, not down) to the jungle, then drop down to the gully between Yane Nihou and Yane Sanpou. Follow this back down to the main face of Yane Sanpou. Rope up or ab, as required. Note: It's a 40m ab from the tree at the top of Meltdown.

Sunday Crack	5.9*	11m
The disjointed cracks leading right out of the second pitch of Nanryou Kanagawa Route. You'll need some big gear.
Start at the top of Nanryou Kanagawa Route pitch 1. Climb the discontinuous crack behind the belay. At its top move right to another crack and climb this to a bolt belay on Nanryou Remon Route. The rock could be better.
Descend by abbing the route. Alternatively, finish up Nanryou Remon Route.

Nanryou Remon Route - South Ridge Lemon Route	5.8****	150m
Another good long stroll, this one being more even than Nanryou Kanagawa Route and featuring a cracking third pitch. The traverse on Pitch 2 can also be intimidating. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.6 As for Nanryou Kanagawa Route - climb the corner - mainly on the slab - on slightly dodgy rock to belay at a tree on a good ledge. If possible, belay out of the corner (a party of two can use the shiny new bolts on top of the pinnacle on the right) Pitch 2. 5.7 From behind the belay, follow a traverse line right to a big flake. Undercling left, then climb the continuation crack and slab to a bolt belay on a good ledge. Pitch 3. 5.8 Step left from the belay and climb the slab to a prominent crack. Up this to another good ledge. The tricky lower section of this pitch can be avoided on the right. But you'll be knocking a star off the route Pitch 4. 5.6 Continue more easily up the slab to the spacious terrace. Pitch 5. 5.5 Wander back and right and pick a line up the easy slabs to the top.
Descend as for Nanryou Kanagawa Route.

Tranquiliser	5.11c**	27m
The rib running right out of the initial corner of Nanryou Kanagawa Route.
Pull right out of the corner to gain a white scoop in the rib. Tricky moves up and out of this lead to a neat arete finish to a bolt belay. Ab/lower off.

J.M.C.C. Route	5.9*	28m
The shallow corner right of Tranquiliser has a nasty start.
Pull out left from the corner to a big crumbly flake, then climb direct on big holds to a steeper section. Pull out right to a vague ledge, then go up and left to a bolt belay (as for Doushikai Route). The direct finish from the steeper section is 5.10c. Ab/lower off (60m rope required to get down in one).

Doushikai Route - The Kindred Spirit Association Route	5.10b**	26m
Couldn't do much with the name. A very pleasant pitch just before the rock gets seriously vegetated.
Start a step up and right of J.M.C.C. Route. Step off a boulder onto a short dike. Climb the narrow slab almost direct for 5m, then make a tricky move up to a good dike. Mantel and go up to a steep section on the left. This is juggy, but Friends 1½ - 2½ or a sling in a thread might make you feel better. Pull onto a sloping ledge, then mantel another dike and drift left to the lower-off of J.M.C.C. Route. You can just get down on a 50m rope.

The next five routes finish at a tree above the line of Meltdown. It's a 40m ab from here. There is now (2007) an intermediate anchor halfway down to the left of the line of meltdown.

Jellyfish	5.11d**	42m
A slightly disappointing pitch meandering up the expanse of slab to the left of Meltdown. You'll be wanting a Friend 1. A new (Summer 2000) aided start has appeared, which you might want to consider freeing.
As for Meltdown, climb the centre of the slab of rock leaning against the main face (possible belay at its top). Climb a series of vague short cracks leading left. From the last of these, step left and go up to a dike. Move up and left to the arete and climb this for a couple of moves (crux) till it is possible to go diagonally right to the tree.

Meltdown	5.10d***	43m
The central line was originally aided, many moons ago. Hence the proliferation of antique bolts.
Climb the centre of the slab of rock leaning against the main face (possible belay at its top). Step right and make technical moves up to a dike. Mantel onto this, then climb to another dike on small, but usually positive holds. Slink off right to easy slab-climbing leading up and left to the tree.

Meltdown Direct	5.11b*****	40m
The obvious direct finish has more bolts than holds. (I've heard that this has been rebolted, but haven't been back since. Be prepared for real bolts more than one metre apart.)
Climb the original route to the second dike, then continue direct by some very fingery moves to the tree. Superb, intricate climbing.

Unknown	5.10d	40m
The line right of Meltdown has a desperate start if it goes where the bolts are. No one seems to know much about this one, and it is never climbed.
Follow grotty spaced bolts to join the traverse of Meltdown. Continue to the tree.

Gaikotsu Biyoyoun - The Bouncing Skeleton	5.11a**	30m
Pleasant slab-climbing - low in the grade. See if you can work out what the first ascensionist was on when he placed the first three bolts.
Steep, easy moves lead to a ledge on the left. Mantel onto a ledge on the right. Make a wobbly third clip (you can reach from the ledge) then break out left and go up to a dike. Mantel onto this, step right and follow the right edge of the slab with the help of a shallow crack. Where the angle eases, pad carefully left and up to the tree.

Ebi no Shippou - The Shrimp's Tail

The notched pinnacle nestling between the tops of Yanes Sanpou and Yonhou. Much bigger than it looks from the campsite.

Approach up the gully between Yanes Sanpou and Yonhou. When you get to the base of the pinnacle, skirt it on the left.

Ebifurai - Shrimp in Breadcrumbs	5.8**	25m
The corner/chimney on the west face. Hardly ever seen, let alone climbed.
Climb the corner on good gear to the summit. You'll need at least one piece bigger than Friend 4. A superb place to be, and yes, it was worth it. Ab off.

Timedrive	5.11c**	25m
The face right of Ebifurai. Good steep moves, but the rock could be better.
Start as for Ebifurai. Pull right onto the face then go up and diagonally right to a flake. Up this then back into the centre of the face to finish at a chain.

Yane Yonhou - Roof Rock Four

The next peak left along the ridge, again, mostly hidden in forest when seen from the campsite. Similar in character to Sanpou, and even less often crowded.
There has been a lot of new route activity in this area but, as is quite the norm in Japan, the first ascensionists are holding back the info until they've done all they can.

Approach as for Sanpou, but skirt the base of Sanpou to the left and continue along the path to the next substantial chunk of rock - less than 10 minutes from Sanpou. This path arrives where a large subsidiary buttress holds up the main rock. The first routes start up and right of here.

Yane Yonhou Right

Rouman Hikou - Romantic Flight	5.11b***	50m
The direct and impressive bolt ladder is now free. A very good route, though the bolts on Pitch 2 are rather the worse for wear and weather. It's well worth doing Pitch 1 alone anyway.
Pitch 1. 5.10c Start right of the gully leading to the top of the subsidiary buttress. Climb an easy slab to great technical moves up a black face. The bulge proves to be jug city, and more easy slab moves gain a belay. Pitch 2. 5.11b From behind the belay, climb direct up a crunchy steep slab then veer right to a big flake. Pull onto this and continue to a tree on a ledge. A deceptively strenuous pitch.
Descend by abbing the route.

Harumi Crack	5.8	30m
The crumbly crack left of Rouman Hikou. Take a rack.
Climb the crack on crunchy but good holds and jams past assorted antique hardware to the belay at the top of pitch 3 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route. If you don't like this stance, you can continue up Pitch 4 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route (10m, 5.5) to a bolt belay.
To descend, ab the route (if you came with enough rope). Alternatively, finish off up Nanryou Kanagawa Route.

Take-chan Crack	5.9	20m
The disgusting off-width right of pitch 2 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route somehow manages to be less pleasant than it looks. Take some big gear!
Start at the top of pitch 1 of Nanryou Kanagawa Route. Traverse right to the crack and climb it to its end. Climb the thinner continuation crack on good jams, then traverse left over easy ground to belay.
Descend the gully either side of the col.

Nanryou Kanagawa Route - South Ridge Kanagawa Route	5.9/A1*	200m
A long, 'challenging' expedition up the front of the rock. Rarely climbed (not many people start the route, and many of those that do turn back at the sight of the "fixed" gear on the aid section) and quite dirty higher up, but the reward is a stunning view.
Pitch 1. 5.6 Climb the centre of the subsidiary buttress to belay at the foot of a wide crack containing a chockstone (at least, I think it's still there). Pitch 2. 5.3 Climb the crack, usually by tunnelling, to belay at the col between the subsidiary buttress and the main crag. Pitch 3. 5.5/A1 Climb up to a pegged crack. Aid this to a dike. Traverse right and pull up to a peg in a flake. Pull up to a small ledge to belay on nuts at the foot of a slanting handcrack. If you're not happy with this, you can run pitches 3 and 4 together (if you haven't got too much drag). Pitch 4. 5.5 Follow the slanting line up and left to belay on nuts at the foot of a chimney. Pitch 5. 5.8 Climb the chimney and slab above to a good ledge and tree belay. Pitch 6. 5.9 Climb the face behind the belay right then left to a prominent easy-looking crack. The angle eases along the way. Pitch 7. 5.3 Climb the crack to huge ledges. Pitch 8. - - Wander back and left to a tree at the foot of a big chimney. Pitch 9. 5.8 Savour the joys of thrutching, or layback stylishly, all the way to the top.
To get down, ab the route, or scramble down over the back onto a track leading left and down to the big gully between Yanes 4 and 5. There is at least one rock step in this that you might want to ab.

The next two routes start up a crack on the right of a yellow wall with a black streak in its centre up and left of the subsidiary buttress. The crack leads to an obvious 'V'.

V-Jijou Ganpeki Urakaidou - The Big V Bypass	5.10a**	50m
The right fork of the prominent 'V'. Take a bucketful of Friends.
Pitch 1. 5.9   Climb the crack to a bolt belay at the base of the 'V'. Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the flake formed by the right side of the 'V', till, joy of joys, it becomes an off-width. Thrutch to a belay.

V-Jijou Ganpeki Hidari Route - The Big V Left Route	5.10b**	16m
The left fork of the prominent 'V'. Take a bucketful of gear.
Pitch 1. 5.9   Climb the crack to a bolt belay at the base of the 'V'. Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb up and left under the overhang. Follow the crack to a chimney. Squirm to a belay.

Yane Yonhou Left

The two cleanish slabs round to the left of the main section. The first is easily recognizable by the long slanting dike of Noizuino.

Surakan - Slarete	5.10d**	13m
The right edge of the slab gets progressively difficult.
Start left of the cave formed by a boulder. Climb diagonally right to stand on the boulder. Step back onto the slab and climb this, occasionally using the arete, to a ledge and lower-off. Sustained, with the crux near the top.

Youroppa Tsuaa - Tour of Europe	5.11c*	13m
An artificial route with a hard start and easy but pleasant finish. As of November 2004, the bolts are back in.
Start a fraction right of the dike of Noizuino. Climb direct to an overlap. The moves past the first bolt are desperate! Make a long reach and mantel to join Tokio '83. Follow this to the anchor of Surakan and lower off.

Tokio '83	5.10a**	50m
Contrasting pitches starting up the slab right of Noizuino. Take a rack. The start used to be quite bold. Used to be.
Pitch 1. 5.10a Start up the dike of Noizuino, but at the first bolt, step right onto the slab and pull over the left side of an overlap. Continue in the same line past a crap bolt to the ledge and belay of Youroppa Tsuaa. Belay here if you like having something to stand on - the route originally belayed at the tree at the top of the crack in front of you. Pitch 2. 5.10a Climb the crack, if you haven't already, to the base of the corner. Pull up and thrash up the corner to trees at the top.
To get down, ab the route (not recommended) or move over to the left (facing in) and ab to the lower-off of Noizuino, then ab again. The alternative is a very long hike round the back and back down again.

Noizuino	5.10b****	26m
The long, left-leaning dike. Well worth finding.
Climb the dike all the way to a lower-off at its end (a 50m rope is just long enough). The crux is at a steep section near the top and the bolts are quite spaced by Ogawayama standards.

Sarada Mushi - Salad Insect	5.10c***	20m
The righthand line up the steep slab set slightly up and left. Very enjoyable.
Gain the line by traversing in along ledges from the gully on the left. Excellent moves lead up and right into a small scoop at an overlap. Pull right out of this, then follow an open groove back left. At its top, make a hard step left, then climb direct to a lower-off.

Funkorogashi - The Dung Beetle	5.11d***	18m
The steeper lefthand line.
Gain the line from the left. Pull up to a small flake and make a tricky step up to a good foothold (think carefully about your belayer's position for this move). Make a hard move up to gain and mantel a good, flat hold. Pull up then make the desperate crux traverse right into a scoop. Pull out right and make neat moves up right to join Sarada Mushi at its last bolt.

Yane Gohou - Roof Rock Five

The next Yane along, separated from Four by a narrow gully. More of a jumble than a single rock. Extensively developed in 2001.

Follow the path along from Yane Yonhou. The first routes climb the small face just opposite the Sarada Mushi slab.

Comaneci Face

Pipotto-kun	5.10d*	9m
The righthand line.
Steep and technical moves to the second bolt, followed by a runout to a tree and lower-off.

Shibainu Mine - XXX	5.10c*	9m
The lefthand line.
Nice enough moves on positive holds to the tree, but the rock could be better.

Chuudan - Central SectionINCOMPLETE!

The upper central section of Yane Gohou, approached by scrambling up the gully between Comaneci Face and the lefthand slab of Yane Yonhou. Described from right to left, from the rib at the top of the approach gully (which then continues up and right to more new stuff).

Fuushi Kaden - XXX	5.11b**	23m
The steep line right of the main rib. Take Friends 1-3 for the top crack.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Watashi no - XXX	5.11b***	23m
The main rib. Excellent open climbing once you get above the trees.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Takushin no - XXX	5.11b***	23m
The main rib. Excellent open climbing once you get above the trees.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Jungle Book	5.11b***	23m
The main rib. Excellent open climbing once you get above the trees.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Roupaa e no Michi - XXX	5.11b***	23m
The main rib. Excellent open climbing once you get above the trees.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Delius	5.13a***	23m
The main rib. Excellent open climbing once you get above the trees.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Gamera Iwa - Gamera Rock

The upper lefthand section of Yane Gohou, approached by scrambling leftwards up the slope under Chuudan. The first three routes start low down, the others require a jaunt through an adventure playground. Be careful because this is new ground and the 'path' hasn't settled yet.
Gamera is a Godzilla-type monster.

Ryuuseichou - Hydra	5.10b*	9m
The neat corner before the path veers of left for the tunnel and fixed ropes up to Kamera Iwa. Take a rack.
Gain the corner from directly below and climb it to its end. A bolt protects the final moves to a lower-off on a good ledge below an impressive wall.

Irisu - Iris	5.10c*	8m
The diagonal line across the wall to the left.
Trying moves on painful rock lead to a tree on a terrace with a good view of Plasma Kakyuu. Not as good as it looks.

Plasma Kakyuu - Plasma Fireball	5.13d****	18m
Supposedly the best and hardest of this new crop of routes up here.
Climb an easy corner to the terrace at the top of Irisu. Step out left onto the arete and climb it on its right to the top. I assume its very technical and a tad difficult at that grade.

The next lot of routes start up on the final terrace, gained by some devious tunnelling and an exposed pull. Be careful and, for everybody's sake, do your toileting before you go up there.

Mana	5.13a**	10m
The righthand line from the top terrace.
Start as for Kuuchuu Kessen. Step out right from the ledge and make a hard move up. Continue up and right then back left to the top.

Kuuchuu Kessen - Aerial Combat	5.12a***	11m
The central line. Good, clean, fingery fun.
Start at the centre of the top face, almost at the right edge of the terrace. Step out right from the ledge and make a hard move up. Thin but steady climbing leads up and left to a tricky step left to gain the top slab. Finish easily.

Gaos	5.10b**	10m
Great moves up the line just in from the left arete, but it's all over a little too soon.
Pull onto the face at a flake, then go quickly up on jugs to where the face overhangs. Use a spike on the arete to help gain a good big pocket (crux), then pad carefully up the slab to a lower-off.

Kamera Iwa - Camera Rock

The blob on the left, separated from Gamera Iwa by a chimney. Routes described from right to left.

Kenkou Chimney - Healthy Chimney	5.7**	8m
The chimney separating Kamera and Gamera. Short but fun.
Back-and-foot facing either way to finish on either summit. A horizontal break on the Kamera side, about 2m below the top, takes good small cams.

Ogawayama Teien - Ogawayama Garden	5.11d****	8m
The diagonal line across the front (south) face. Lovely, sustained, technical moves.
Follow the line - you'll get no help from me on this! Hard to onsight and easy to flash.

Yubi yo, Hada yo - Fingers and Skin	5.13a**	8m
The righthand line on the small face set a fraction back and left.
Follow the bolts - very fingery!

Konnichiwa Oppai - Hello, Breast	5.12b**	9m
Whatever. The lefthand line.
Start as for Yubi yo, Hada yo. From its second bolt, step left and climb a curving line to the top.

Yane Gohou, Shoumen Heki - The Main Face

Approach by following the path down from Comaneci Face. If you arrive on the lower path, you miss out Yane Four altogether. Routes described from right to left.

Kishio Crack	5.11d**	22m
Kishio is the first name of one of the first ascensionists. A good stiff crack climb almost on the right edge of the face. Take a rack.
Use a rib to gain the base of merging cracks. Climb the righthand of these till it fades. At the bolt, traverse right to the arete and a lower-off.

The hand crack just left is a tasty 5.10a.

Jack Sanjou - Visiting Jack	5.12a*	21m
The bolted rib left again.
Start down and left of the rib. Climb steeply up to the rib and follow it all the way as it curves left to a lower-off.

Omoi Kondara - Heavy XXX	5.11c**	18m
The attractive central groove.
Gain the groove easily, then follow it with increasing difficulty to its end. A couple of steep moves gain a lower-off.

Zarame - Brown Sugar	5.11b**	21m
A good steep line, but keep the route name in mind!
Start at the left end of a diagonal fault (some might even call it a crack). Follow the fault up and right then pull out left and go up to a ledge. Step off this and head for the left arete, then jink up and right to a lower-off.

Yane Gohou Kabu Okuheki - Yane Gohou Left

A buttress up and left of the Main Face that stands out slightly from the main jumble.

Fujin Kuubo - The Unsinkable Aircraft Carrier	5.10b*	60m
Start at the toe of the buttress, at a fault hiding behind a cedar. Take a rack.
Pitch 1. 5.9 Climb the fault past a sling on a spike to a steep section. Clip a bolt then move left and make frightening moves to another bolt. Continue more easily to broken cracks and follow these past a flake to a good ledge and belay. Pitch 2. 5.10b Climb the steeper and more confident continuation crack to the top - a good pitch.
To get down, ab the route or pull over the back to the base of Kamera Iwa and follow the adventure playground down and round to the base of the route.

The gully up and left of Fujin Kuubo has been dug out and stepped in rather temporary fashion. Immediately left of Fujin Kuubo is a project, and left again is another starting at an alarmingly leaning flake - if it's still there. Another step up left again, almost at the back of the gully, two routes share the same start.

Minasama no Haru - Spring Time for Everybody	5.10b*	17m
An intimidating, steep line, usually on good holds.
Take the right fork from the first bolt and climb almost directly as quickly as possible to a wide flake/crack. Swim up this, then go carefully up and left to a lower-off.

Pankin Punkun	5.12b**	17m
A steeper, more intimidating line, with better rock but smaller holds than its neighbour. No idea about the name, but you can be sure it doesn't make sense.
Take the left fork. Make hard moves out left then straight up to an overhang. Pull through and continue to a lower-off.

The bolters were also at it up and right of Fujin Kuubo. The rock is very crusty and, if you ask me, which you do, the routes aren't very inspiring.

Kujuu no Sentaku - A Difficult Choice	5.11c*	35m
Indeed. Should you bother or not? Start by scrambling up to a short crack on the left.
Pitch 1. 5.11c Climb the crack and the bolted line above to a good ledge and belay. Pitch 2. 5.11b Climb the steeper and more confident continuation crack to the top - a good pitch.
To get down, ab the route (it's almost exactly 25m from the belay at the top of pitch 1 to the bottom) or climb Himo Tsuki no Boulder.

Himo Tsuki no Boulder - Boulder on a String	5.12a*	10m
A boulder problem in the sky.
Start at the top of Kujuu no Sentaku. Climb the short steep face above the belay to a lower-off.

Eien no Tou - The Eternal Tower	5.11d**	25m
The slender righthand face. Take a couple of large Friends.
Climb the centre of the lower face to a prominent break. Pull over this and follow a leaning line up and right to a lower-off.

Yane Honpou Spire - Summit Spire

Difficult to distinguish from Yane Gohou from below, the spire is obvious once you're up there. Just two routes so far, but they're both quite good, and there look to be more on the way.

Follow the path up the gully left of Yane Gohou. The first route climbs the obvious crack in the front face.

Tsukigata Hanheita	5.12a***	50m
Another good crack climb, this time with a hard finale up the impressive face. Take a rack. I'm told the route name is a person's name. Don't know who.
Climb the disjointed crack, easily at first, to its end. Sprint up and down the short steep face to the top.
To get down, ab the route (you'll need two ropes).

Yacchii Face	5.11d**	20m
The diagonal bolt line on the slightly leaning face to the left.
Follow the bolts strenuously to a lower-off.